Robin Shepard
The Fermentorium is a small brewery and taproom on the north edge of Cedarburg. It’s been brewing for a little less than a year, and until a few weeks ago, to get its beer you would have needed to go there. Just before Christmas a handful of beers from the Fermentorium started turning up in Madison. Its Underwater Panther is strong, with lots of citrus character, a hoppy beer that’s right in the wheelhouse of double IPA drinkers.
What is it? Underwater Panther from the Fermentorium of Cedarburg.
Style: The double IPA (also called imperial India pale ale or IIPA) is deep golden to reddish-amber in color with a medium- to full-bodied mouthfeel. While it’s known for a strong hop profile, there should be a hearty backbone of malty-spicy complexity. The IIPA can be quite strong at 7.5-10 percent ABV.
Background: Kris Volkman, an avid homebrewer, was a software designer in Milwaukee prior to opening the Fermentorium. The brewery held its grand opening last March. Its beers weren’t seen much outside of Cedarburg or Grafton until this past December, when Volkman’s younger brother Mike, who lives in Madison, offered to help by handling distribution here.
Underwater Panther showcases juicy, tropical Citra hops. “It’s aggressively dry-hopped for huge aroma,” says Volkman. It’s also made with 100 pounds of orange blossom honey per 20-barrel batch. The result is a medium-bodied beer that finishes strong, at 10 percent ABV, and flavorful, with an estimated 75 IBUs (international bitterness units).
The Fermentorium is currently offering about four different beers in bomber bottles. Its Underwater Panther falls into a bitter line of brews the brewery refers to as its Hop Wheel series, which also includes Juice Packets IPA. Both beers can be currently found Madison. Volkman says he’s recently brewed another batch of Underwater Panther, so we’ll likely see it around through winter. He has not decided the future of Juice Packet just yet; however, a few liquor stores did see that one also turn up in 12-ounce cans. Among the other Fermentorium beers on local shelves right now is the Belgian tripel Divine Sanctuary and a spiced Belgian blonde ale called Fou d’Amour
The name Underwater Panther comes from a mythological creature of Native American lore, a malevolent beast that lives in deep water and needs to be appeased for safe passage across a lake.
The Fermentorium’s Underwater Panther sells in 22-ounce bottles for $10-$11.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Tropical citrus.
Appearance: Clear, deep copper color. A medium-thick, soft tan head.
Texture: Medium-bodied, round and bubbly.
Taste: Inviting citrus hints of orange, tangerine and grapefruit. There’s a spiciness from the blending of hops and malt that offers balance.
Finish/Aftertaste: Warmth with a spicy grapefruit dryness that lingers.
Glassware: A heavy, chilled (not frozen) glass mug. I prefer a thick mug; it helps insulate the beer, keeping it cold longer, which accentuates the juicy tropical bitterness.
Pairs well with: an aggressive entrée that offers some spice. It’s especially nice with Cajun-pepper heat. It also goes well with pungent, musty cheeses like blue and Limburger.
The Verdict: This hoppy beer has an inviting tropical hop aroma with waves of orange and tangerine. That juicy fruitiness will please IIPA and IPA lovers. It eventually becomes warm and spicy, with lingering dryness. This is an IIPA with complexity; barley and honey lend balance, sweetness and strength. This is a solid IIPA and one that’s become a defining beer for this young brewery.
