Robin Shepard
One of the best things about the recently concluded Madison Craft Beer Week was stumbling across the surprises — unexpected gems from local brewers who consider the annual event the ideal platform for releasing new beers. Rockhound Brewing chose to unveil Plowshare, a bright, crisp fruity saison, last Friday. It quickly rose to the top of my list of standouts from the 10-day affair.
What is it? Plowshare from Rockhound Brewing Company of Madison.
Style: Saisons are sometimes referred to as farmhouse ales because they emerged from farmstead breweries in the French-speaking region of Belgium. The saison is a hard beer to classify. Modern versions can be light hazy straw in color to a dark copper amber. They are most commonly light- to medium-bodied, effervescent, with dryness due to the distinctive stain of yeast used to make them. Saisons will range from 4.5 to 7 percent ABV.
Background: “It’s summertime in a glass,” says Rockhound brewmaster Nate Warnke of Plowshare. The beer’s color certainly is reminiscent of a sunny day. It also has an assertive fruity orange aroma.
Warnke says he became interested in saisons as a homebrewer, long before opening his Madison brewpub. His first attempt at making one was for a friend’s wedding a few years ago. “After that, it was a matter of trying a few different things, like spices and grains to see what makes for a refreshing warm-weather beer,” he says.
Plowshare is made with a combination of Pilsner and Munich caramel malts and a modest amount of red wheat that gives the beer its hazy appearance. The flavors from those play off the earthy, spicy, dry French saison yeast. Warnke chose Czech Saaz hops and a touch of coriander to lend a bit more herbal spiciness. However, it’s Warnke’s use of bitter orange peel that most fully complements the saison yeast, accentuating a fruity crispness that lends a refreshing character ideal for a summer beer.
Plowshare ends up at 6 percent ABV and around 30 IBUs (International Bitterness Units). It’s sold over the bar for $4/10 ounce glass, $5.50/pint, and $15/growler (refill). It’s expected to remain on tap through summer and early fall.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light earthy yeastiness with hints of orange.
Appearance: Vivid hazy orange-golden body, and a modestly frothy off-white head.
Texture: Light-bodied, bubbly, crisp.
Taste: The light earthy yeasty qualities are up front; then the crisp fruity orange shines throughout.
Finish/Aftertaste: The orange fruitiness slowly fades as light spicy hints of coriander and the dryness of the saison yeast emerge.
Glassware: The tulip glass is a wonderful way to display the beer’s orange-copper color, while the outward flare of the lip allows the fruity notes in the aroma to emerge under the nose.
Pairs well with: Grilled fish and chicken, light sandwiches and picnic fare. Saisons go with just about anything.
The Verdict: This beer has a lot of Belgian wit-like character with its light body and very hazy appearance. For drinkers who tend to be sticklers about styles, I suggest not worrying too much about what is or isn’t a saison and just enjoy this beer for what it offers. It’s refreshing and crisp, with lots of fruity orange aroma and flavor. It also has a mildly spicy backbone from the French saison yeast. Plowshare sets an early benchmark for what to watch for around town this summer.
