Robin Shepard
House of Brews brewmaster Page Buchanan is well known for releasing his beers when they’re ready, rather than in the season that might seem most appropriate. Last winter, while he was making a Belgian quadruple for Christmas, the yeast stopped working. While the beer was still quite good, it wasn’t what he’d hoped for. So he decided to age it in a barrel to see what would happen. The result — while not a characteristic summertime beer — is one of his best, boldest and most creative brews yet. It’s called DupleXX.
What is it? DupleXX by House of Brews of Madison.
Style: The Belgian dubbel is a medium- to full-bodied, red to dark brown ale. The style offers spicy sweetness and malty hints of chocolate and caramel. Dubbels have low bitterness, but are known for distinctive yeasty qualities characterized by the fruity esters of banana, raisin and plum. They can be strong beers, ranging from 6% to 8% ABV. The dubbel originated in monasteries in the Middle Ages and emerged commercially in the 19th century.
Background: There is some similarity between DupleXX and House of Brews’ Jailhouse Doppelbock, especially in the malt bill and the sweetness of this beer. However, DupleXX is made with a Belgian yeast and two types of turbinado sugar, which combine for distinct stone fruit sweetness and hints of plum and cherry. The beer was aged for four months in Heaven Hill Distillery bourbon barrels before it was bottled.
Buchanan made just one batch, a little less than 10 barrels, of this beer. Nearly all of that went into 22-ounce bomber bottles. He expects it’ll be available well into July. If you miss it, this is a beer that will likely return next winter. Buchanan says he’s planning to release several big beers, including DupleXX, at the end of the year when the weather is colder. (If you’re interested in a preview of another one of those strong beers from House of Brews, there’s a pilot batch of 14.8% barley wine, likely to eventually be called Dog House, that’s currently on tap in the brewery.)
The “X’s” in the name DupleXX are a nod to the old way of denoting the strength of beer on the outside of the barrels. Generally, the use of XXX was a mark of the strongest beer in the brewery. DupleXX was around 8.5% ABV before it went into the bourbon barrels; the final results may be even stronger. It’s currently available in 22-ounce bomber bottles for around $10.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Malty, hints of dark fruit and bourbon.
Appearance: Very dark bronze to black color. A medium bubbly tan head.
Texture: Full bodied, soft with thickness and with alcoholic warmth throughout.
Taste: Malty in the beginning with rich sweet dark stone fruits like plum and raisin. Warm with a firm background of bourbon and hints of oak.
Finish/Aftertaste: Plum and bourbon sweetness with warmth. There’s also a light hint of wood from the barrel in the finish.
Glassware: The chalice or goblet encourages sipping of the dubbel as it warms. Enjoy it slowly and allow it to come to room temperature to bring out more of its sweetness, plus notes of bourbon, vanilla and wood from the barrel.
Pairs well with: The sweet, malty clove and spice flavors of the dubbel go well with sausages and stews with modest sweetness. It’s also great with aged cheeses like Gouda and cheddar. But don’t overlook drinking it on its own.
The Verdict: I discovered this beer several weeks ago at its initial release during the Dells Rare Barrel Affair. I was excited to find it for sale locally in bombers. It’s strong, assertive in caramel and chocolate maltiness, with a solid backbone of dark stone fruit sweetness. The bourbon is up front in the nose and in the finish, and it also provides a sweet core with plenty of warmth throughout. DupleXX is a little low in carbonation, which works well with all the malty sweetness and the notes of bourbon. Serve it at 45 degrees or warmer, and you’ll find layers and layers of complex flavor, as the cherry, chocolate and boozy bourbon emerge even more. This definitely is a big beer, and some might say it’s just too far out of season to appreciate. However, I’m certainly not one of those. DupleXX is bold, rich and wonderful as a dessert beer or nightcap on a warm summer evening. It’s right up there among Buchanan’s best beers, and among my favorites across the board so far in 2016.
