Since Wisconsin Brewing opened in 2013 it’s been fun to watch Brewmaster Kirby Nelson break out of the box of lager brewing that he’d been known for while working at Middleton’s Capital Brewery. Even Nelson jokes about his long aversion to making hoppy beers. However, things change, and Nelson has created a broad portfolio of brews at Wisconsin Brewing that includes not only traditional German lagers but some hoppy beers that have surprised local hopheads who didn’t think he could, or would, make a beer for them.
Now, Nelson’s taken another turn with hops, dialing them back a bit and going after a growing trend among hops lovers who like lighter-bodied beers with less alcohol yet unique flavors from hops. His Nectarine Special Pale Ale is for those looking for a bitter beer that’s more sessionable than many hoppy beers.
What is it? Nectarine Special Pale Ale from Wisconsin Brewing Company (WBC).
Style: The pale ale can have medium- to high-hop bitterness in flavor and aroma, and a medium body. English pale ales often have an herbal hop character in the bitterness and aroma, while American versions (made with U.S.-grown hops) are known for a citrus or resiny character. Pale ales commonly range from 4.5% to 5.5% ABV.
Background: Nectarine Special Pale ale is beer #022 for Wisconsin Brewing. It’s expected to start appearing in local stores after April 1, 2016. “I call it hop pop,” says Nelson. “It’s a very simple beer, moderate, with gentle bitterness for a pale ale.” Nelson makes it with Wisconsin-grown Cascade hops and an experimental hop that’s so new it only goes by a number. Together, those hops and sweet orange peel lend the beer the tropical character that gives this beer its nectarine name.
For local brewery history buffs, the old-school packaging references Madison’s former Fauerbach Brewery, which operated until 1966. Fauerbach produced a malt tonic with nectarine in the early 1900s. Malt tonics were thought to be a remedy for a variety of illnesses, and were a popular prescription from doctors during the years of Prohibition. Nelson says the WBC label was approved by the Fauerbach family.
Nectarine Special Pale Ale finishes at 4.9% ABV and 28 IBUs. Six-packs of 12-ounce bottles sell for around $9.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light, yet firm, tropical hoppiness with a hint of orange and peach.
Appearance: Bright yellow golden color. Slightly hazy. A thick, soft, light-tan head.
Texture: Medium-bodied, bubbly, crisp and dry.
Taste: A crispy hoppiness, accented by orange, peach and tangerine.
Finish/Aftertaste: The hints of tropical-fruity bitterness continue, with a light-dryness.
Glassware: The Willi Becher, with its inward taper near the lip, will focus the tropical tones of the nose while holding the head and showing off the beer’s light yellow-golden color.
Pairs well with: Warmer weather and outside grilling. This is a beer that’s well suited for backyard picnics and barbecues.
The Verdict: Wisconsin Brewing’s Nectarine makes me yearn for warmer days of late spring and summer. This light-bodied beer, with its crisp tropical hoppiness, will appeal in that weather. It ends with a pleasant clean dryness. And, at 4.9% ABV, it’s very approachable and inviting for more than one glass. The hints of orange, peach and nectarine notes make it different from just a light session pale ale.
