Grand Cru from Hinterland
Growth continues to seem boundless for craft beer in Wisconsin. Once again, the last 12 months have offered brewery openings and expansions, new faces behind the brew kettles, and plenty of memorable beers. These developments are evident around the state, while the region surrounding Madison continues to build a reputation as a brewing destination.
Perhaps the most talked-about trend throughout 2014 was the regional emergence of multiple sour programs, all capturing the fancy of beer enthusiasts in a major way. New Glarus brewmaster Dan Carey opened his new Wild Fruit Cave, a facility that is like no other in the U.S. This expanded commitment to sours positions the brewery to be a leader and bolster its national reputation. On a much smaller scale, One Barrel owner Peter Gentry and brewer Dan Sherman, who make beer just 32 gallons at a time, carved out space in the basement of their brewery in Madison to build a sour program. The innovators at MobCraft Beer of Madison started building their sour portfolio too. And O'so Brewing of Plover has also been ambitious in developing sour beers, working in collaboration with Levi Funk of Funk Factory Geuzeria, who announced plans for a facility in Madison.
Considering all of the attention sours have received over the last 12 months, it's noteworthy that 2015 will be even bigger for the style. These wild-fermented brews take a long time to age before being released, so the year ahead holds plenty of promise.
Not only were sours a big thing, but session beers seemed to be catching on too. Flavorful, yet light-bodied and lower in alcohol, several breweries introduced their creations over the year. Lake Louie brewmaster Tom Porter introduced his Session Series that spanned multiple styles, while Ale Asylum, Lakefront Brewery and Wisconsin Brewing released hoppy ales in a similar vein.
One of the breweries that was most fun to watch over the last year was the newly established Wisconsin Brewing Company of Verona. After launching in late 2013, it moved aggressively by anyone's expectations by releasing 13 beers by the end of its first year in business. Brewmaster Kirby Nelson, who's been making beer locally for nearly 30 years, embraced a flirtation with hops to create psycHOPath, his first double IPA, which proved to be a shot across the bow of those who didn't think he'd ever make such a seriously bitter brew. Nelson didn't forget the malt-centric lagers that brought him to the dance, though, making for a balanced lineup from this ambitious startup.
Many more breweries are on the way. Viking Brewpub in Stoughton opened its doors back in July, bringing craft beer to the southeastern corner of Dane County. But its the area just north of Madison that's turning into fertile ground. Late this year, Parched Eagle Brewpub announced it had signed a lease for space in Westport, Octopi Brewing got the go-ahead to develop its ambitious contract operation in Waunakee, and Prairie Brewing and Smokehaus was setting its sights on Sun Prairie.
It was also a year of changes among the people setting the pace in brew houses. A few of the many personal changes included Ashley Kinart taking over as brewmaster at Capital Brewery in Middleton, while Brian Destree turned his attention to planning a new production facility in Sauk City. In the Madison area, Bryan Kreiter took the reins at Next Door Brewing for Keith Symonds, who moved on to help assist in the opening of Viking Brewpub, while Don Vasa traded in his boots at the Great Dane-Hilldale for Ale Asylum. O'so saw a succession of changes, with Ray Wagner coming from Sand Creek Brewing in Black River Falls to take over for the Michigan-bound Steve Buszka, who had himself recently departed Potosi Brewing, where the top position was in turn filled by Steve McCoy, previously of City Brewery in La Crosse. Yes, there's as much happening behind the scenes as there is with the brews themselves.
Despite all that's been going on with the Wisconsin craft beer scene in over the last year, the brews themselves created the most memories. Here are my 2014 favorites.
Trendsetter
Bryan Kreiter and Next Door Brewing
Bryan Kreiter hadn't been with Next Door much longer than six months when he found himself in the brewmaster's boots. He quickly earned acclaim from fellow brewers by stabilizing the brewpub's portfolio by developing a respectable lineup of standard releases, which has worked out well for the brewpub. Kreiter's standards now include Eastside APA, Bascom Blonde, Hammerhead Belgian IPA, Luminous IPA, Rockets Red Ale, and Sevex.
Hophead's Delight
Fantasy Factory India Pale Ale from Karben4 Brewing
Karben4 launched in late 2012, having taken over a north Madison space formerly used by Ale Asylum and purchased several pieces of that brewery's equipment, including a bottling line. It wasn't until this fall, though, that Karben4 was able to complete badly needed repairs on that latter element and start producing bottles. Come October, Fantasy Factory, an assertive IPA, was the first to roll off the refurbished line, to great anticipation and acclaim. It's the brewery's best-selling release. Appealing to the taste of local hopheads, Karben4 took its bitter bite a step further with Idiot Farm, a big brother double IPA. This brew too has a following that is now crying out for in bottles.
Sour Delight
from New Glarus Brewing
As sour brews blossomed this year, New Glarus unveiled the Wild Fruit Cave at its Riverside Brewery (the original facility), complete with a coolship (koelschip in Flemish), used to cool wort slowly and expose the liquid to the open air's wild yeasts and bacterias. While brewmaster Dan Carey has made an Oud Bruin previously, this vintage is noteworthy in that it's the first to emerge from the new cave. Going forward, it will serve as the base beer for a variety of forthcoming fruit brews from New Glarus.
Barrel-aged Favorite
Carnal Knowledge in the Wood from Tyranena Brewing
When Tyranena owner and brewmaster Rob Larson celebrated his brewery's 15th anniversary this year, he made this special beer to mark the occasion. It's a double stout aged in rye whiskey barrels. A full-bodied dark ale, it's rich in maltiness that's blended with the spirit-sweetness and dryness of rye whiskey. This is one of Larson's best barrel-aged beers, and over the years he's produce some very memorable ones, including Dirty Old Man Imperial Porter, which was one of the top Wisconsin beers in 2008, and Shaggin' in the WoodScotch Ale, which was was tops in this category in 2013. However, Carnal Knowledge in the Wood is a very limited-release beer, and so far has only been offered on draught in the brewery's tasting room and in four-packs only available over its bar.
Worth the Drive
Door County Brewing in Bailey's Harbor
Yes, Door County is about more than cherries and wine! As if one needs another reason to vacation in the Door Peninsula, good beer is now firmly on the list of amenities the destination offers. John McMahon and his sons Danny and Been opened Door County Brewing in May to cater to both locals and tourists, renovating a building that previously served as a barn, feed mill and grocery store. It's one of two breweries in the county, the other being Shipwrecked Brew Pub in Egg Harbor. They're joined by a host of emerging craft beer bars in the area, and two annual beer festivals. And what's more, even though it's not on the peninsula, Ahnapee Brewing in nearby Algoma makes for a great stop on the way there.
Bomber Bottle Blast
Golden Creek from Hydro Street Brewing
This small operation got its start three years ago in a century-old building in downtown Columbus. This year, brewmaster Aaron Adams installed a new three-barrel system that will help him keep up with local customers' demands. Now he's building a bottling operation at Hydro Street, expanding the number of brews available in 22-ounce bombers. Golden Creek is a big Belgian-style ale that finishes at nearly 10% ABV. Its label identifies it as a dubbel, but it's really more like a warm and flavorful strong golden ale. This beer has a vivid golden color, with lots of effervescence, a slightly dry finish and warmth from the alcohol. This was a great discovery, and was somewhat by accident because I was expecting something quite different due to the style on the label.
Homebrew Appreciation
Gluten-Free Alt Brew Farmhouse Ale from Greenview Brewing
One just has to admire a homebrewer who creates a special beer for a spouse, and even more so when it becomes the impetus for a full-fledged brewery. Trevor Easton started making gluten-free beer for his wife Maureen due to her gluten intolerance from celiac disease. In May, he unveiled Farmhouse Ale, his take on a saison, only gluten-free. The Eastons founded Greenview Brewing in 2013 as an independent brewery that operates at the House of Brews on Madison's east side.
Nightcap
Big Eddy Cherry Doppelschwarz from Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Company
The Big Eddy brands of Leinenkugel's got a shake-up in 2014. New to this limited line of bold and flavorful brews was Cherry Doppelschwarz, made with Door County grown Montmorency cherries. It's a rich, malty beer that's reminiscent of cherry-covered chocolate cake, albeit in a glass. Leinenkugel's announced this year it would be shuffling the styles of beers found in the Big Eddy series. These beers will be released seasonally, and now include the Cherry Doppelschwarz (late fall), Russian Imperial Stout (winter), Imperial IPA (early summer), and Uber Oktoberfest (late summer). A fifth brew will be introduced in May 2015.
Most Sessionable
Demento from Ale Asylum
Like sours, session beers also grew in popularity in 2014. Ale Asylum's take on these lighter yet flavorful brews was a highly hopped pale ale. It packs a heavy dose of Cascade and Centennial hops, and at 4.7% ABV, it's very easy to drink. Demento first appeared as draught-only in the brewery's taproom last February, and its reception from session beer fans was so strong the beer was introduced as a year-round bottle offering in November.
Flavorable Big Brew
Kremlin Russian Imperial Stout from House of Brews
Brewmaster Page Buchanan stepped up his production of 22-ounce bomber bottles in 2014. This big and bold Russian imperial stout was released in late February. It's rich in malts, strong at nearly 10% ABV, and perfect for aging. Buchanan also offered his own bourbon barrel-aged version this fall.
Expanding Boundaries
Brandy and Bourbon Barrel-Aged Old Fashioned Berliner Weisse from MobCraft Beer
It seemed suspiring, even unusual, when not one but three beers inspired by the Old Fashioned cocktail were released in 2014. Late this fall, MobCraft took a tart Berliner Weisse and added orange zest and juice, Door County cherries, juniper berries, cardamom and star anise, and then aged it in both bourbon and brandy barrels. The two version's aromas were supper club-classic, and flavors a reminder of how visions for what craft beer can be continue to expand. Earlier in the year, New Glarus offered its own take on the cocktail with Spiced Ale, a Scotch ale to which the traditional Old Fashioned spices and bitters were added.
Memorable Old Friend
Good Old Potosi from Potosi Brewing
Sometimes all one really wants is a beer that doesn't invite analysis but is still flavorful. The golden ale can do the trick, and Good Old Potosi is a beer I turned to for that. It's especially nice in the warmer months of summer with a light-body that's modeled after the golden lagers of the 1930s-50s. This is the type of beer that once helped make the Potosi Brewery one of Wisconsin's largest.
Best of the Seasons
Spring: Grisette from Door County Brewing
This limited release is a super-low alcohol farmhouse ale at 3.8% ABV. It was offered in special tastings and events during Madison Craft Beer Week. Made with lemon peel, this beer was fermented with saison yeast and Brettanomyces. It was simply a light, crisp, refreshing brew.
Summer: Fishin' in the Dark from Capital Brewery
Ashley Kinart showed that dark beers aren't just for winter. Fishin' in the Dark is a deep black "imperial" version of a schwarzbier (dark German lager) that made its debut in June. It was the first beer designed from start to finish by Kinart.
Fall: Autumnal Hoppiness Harvest Ale from 3 Sheeps Brewing
This brew really reflects the go-your-own-way approach by 3 Sheeps. Right when Oktoberfests and other rich, malty brews were filling shelves for the fall season, the Sheboygan-based brewery offered a bitter amber ale showcasing Nugget, Cascade and Centennial hops. Autumnal Hoppiness is medium-bodied with a sharp citrus-bitterness similar to assertive West Coast red ales. It was a distinctive and welcome alternative for the fall season.
Winter: Deep Winter Coffee Stout from Karben4 Brewing
Brewmaster Ryan Koga is really creating a following for this young Madison brewery. Deep Winter is a rich stout that features a special coffee blend called Bike Fuel that is roasted by Just Coffee Cooperative, which is located only a few blocks from the brewery. What really makes this beer unique, though, is that it's devoid of any hopping whatsoever, because Koga was sensitive to Casey Blanche, the co-op's master roaster who has an allergy to hops. I also named Deep Winter was as best of 2014 Isthmus Beer and Cheese Fest.
Rare Monster
Heavy Head Imperial Pilsner from the Great Dane-Hilldale
The Great Dane relishes a brewing challenges. With Heavy Head, its brewers sat out to defy expectations for light crisp pilsners by making a bold, full bodied "imperial" version of the style. Then there's six separate additions of Germany Hallertau hops to provide a crown of unique spicy bitterness. The beer lived up to its "big" promise at over 12% ABV.
Extended Run
Scream IIPA from New Glarus Brewing
This imperial IPA was introduced in June as part of the limited-release Thumbprint series from New Glarus. It quickly became one of the brewery's most popular beers in 2014, and it has continued to be produced up to the end of the year. While New Glarus has brewed an imperial IPA before, this is new and improved. Scream is made with 10 different varieties of hops, including several grown in Wisconsin, three of which are from the brewery's own fields. Wisconsin-grown barley is also part of its malt bill, another homegrown element in the beer's recipe. It all ends up at 85 IBUs and just over 9% ABV. Named for an eagle that watches over the New Glarus grounds, Scream just screams with fresh, bright hoppiness.
Unexpected Treat
Bleeding Heart Deep Amber Saison from Wisconsin Brewing Company
Brewmaster Kirby Nelson really surprised several times over the year with his departures from the malty lagers that have always been his signature. The most memorable is Bleeding Heart, an amber saison that's much darker than what one usually associates with light-bodied farmhouse ales. This beer is richer in flavor, and stronger too at 6.1% ABV. It's really a bigger, darker version of Zenith, a saison that Nelson released earlier in the summer. While Bleeding Heart pushes the definition of a saison, it's the best of Wisconsin Brewing's first year's crop, and a great beer for those who don't adhere to style dogma.
Best New Beer Venue
Wisconsin Brewing Company of Verona, Wisconsin
Wisconsin Brewing has quickly emerged as a craft beer destination. While the taproom opened in late 2013, as the weather turned nice over the summer, the brewery unveiled its outdoors beer garden. With a bar, walking trails and views that overlook a small pond, it’s a relaxing venue to enjoy a beer, listen to live music, appreciate the view.
Best Beer of 2014: Honorable Mention
The Cabernet of Dr. Caligari from Vintage Brewing Company
Vintage Brewing celebrated its 500th brew this fall. In the four years since opening, brewmaster Scott Manning says he's made at least 60 different beers. Over that time, he has shown a lot of creativity, not only by nailing traditional style, but also by tackling sours, barrel-aging and even blended beers that showcase unique adjuncts. A beer in the vein of this latter approach, The Cabernet of Dr. Caligari, stood out among my favorites for the year. Named in tribute to a classic German silent film, it starts out as the brewpub's Dedication, a Belgian dubbel. That's then aged for over a year in French wine (oak) barrels. What emerges are malty raisin and plum characteristics common in dubbels, melded with the sweetness of red wine and oak, coming together for a smooth, inviting and memorable experience.
Best Beer of 2014
Grand Cru from Hinterland Brewery
The Grand Cru is supposed to be a brewery's very best, and this beer lived up to its name. Hinterland first offered its take on a Grand Cru in 2012 as a draught-only beer that could really only be found at the Green Bay brewery. This year, though, Hinterland made a Grand Cru and turned it out in 16-ounce bottles. It's a full-bodied malty beer with lots of dark fruit sweetness. When the bottles first appeared in the spring, it was spectacular. But it was even better after holding back a couple of bottles for extended aging. I just opened one, nearly eight months later, and it was even more special. The deep fruit tones were still strong, yet they had softened somewhat, and so had the spicy warmth of its 9.6% ABV. Grand Cru mellowed in a memorable way, and stood out in an excellent year.
