Robin Shepard
A “vintage ale” falls within a category of brews known as old ales. They’re beers made to age gracefully and intended to be sold by the year of vintage, thus the name. They sometimes are called “stock ales” or “keeping ales.” Because of their strength, some have earned tongue-in-cheek nicknames like “lunatic broth” and “milk-of-amnesia.” The Great Dane Pub & Brewing Company comes up with special batches of beer from time to time, and this Vintage Ale is its take on a beer for aging.
What is it? Vintage Ale from the Great Dane Pub & Brewing Company is made at its Hilldale location and can also be found on tap at several of the brewpub's other locations.
Style: Vintage ales can top 9% ABV, and with their malty backbone they are often confused with barleywines. However, the old ale is specifically designed to mature, condition and mellow over time. These are malt-focused beers with complex sweetness; often rich in copper, amber and reddish-bronze color. One of the standards is Fuller’s Vintage Ale, sold in single bottles, packaged in its own box.
Background: The Great Dane first made Vintage Ale back in 2000. The idea came from brewmaster Rob LoBreglio, who brought together brewing buddies Kirby Nelson and Pat Keller. Current head brewer Nate Zukas used the original brewer’s log book to re-create the current recipe. “From what they tell me, that first one was pretty fantastic,” he says.
Since then the Great Dane has made a vintage ale a few times, but this beer hasn’t appeared on the brewpub’s taps for at least 10 years. This fall Zukas and LoBreglio planned ahead, making the beer in October so it could be conditioned for nearly a month and a half for a winter release. Vintage Ale just went on tap last weekend at the Great Dane’s Hilldale location. Other Great Danes are expected to serve the beer over the coming weeks.
The beer is made with the typical ingredients of an old European ale. Its malts include Golden Promise from Scotland, British Fuggel hops and an English yeast. Zukas was inspired by Fuller’s Vintage Ale, a benchmark for the old ale style. “If I see a Fuller’s tap handle, I don’t care which beer it is, it’ll be a rare treat, because they have such phenomenal beers,” says Zukas.
The Great Dane’s Vintage Ale finishes at 9% ABV and sells for $6/glass. It is not sold by the growler or crowler because of its strength. It should also be on tap at the other Great Danes throughout December.
Although it’s already on tap at Hilldale, there’s a special release party at 6 p.m. Dec. 17 at the Great Dane-Hilldale. Invitations have been sent to several brewmasters in the area asking them to join patrons for a pint that night and compare it with a special firkin that’s been dry-hopped with whole-leaf hops.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A mild yet firm bready-maltiness. There is also a hint of clean fruity-floral yeastiness.
Appearance: Copper color, and a slight haziness. The head is medium, soft, creamy and tan.
Texture: Medium-bodied, round and soft. Alcoholic warmth builds into the finish.
Taste: A smooth, bready, biscuit malt-sweetness. A light sweet fruitiness with hints of grape and plum in the background.
Finish/Aftertaste: The maltiness continues, yet its finishes very clean. There is a little lingering warmth.
Glassware: The Great Dane will serve it in the tulip glass, which encourages sipping and is a nice way to enjoy its soft malty aroma.
Pairs well with: A pairing with Mad City Mama’s BBQ Meatloaf from the Great Dane menu and you’ll have a complete comfort food experience for colder winter weather.
The Verdict: The Great Dane really fulfills the spirit of a vintage ale with this beer. It’s too bad you can’t get a crowler of it to personally lay down and age. I’d really like to see what happens to this beer in four or five years. However, the Great Dane itself is tucking away few kegs for aging.
Even now, this is a beer worth visiting the brewpub to experience. With a malty forwardness that’s smooth and alluring, and hints of grape, plum and fig, this is a vintage ale that offers complexity in sweetness and satisfies the way a winter warmer should.
