Robin Shepard
Working Draft's Clint Lohman pours using a side-pull tap.
Working Draft Beer Company will host a Czech Beer Fest Aug. 2-3 featuring more than a dozen beers served on traditional side pull taps.
Interest in Czech beers is growing — and so is their availability. Summer and warm-weather drinking certainly make these light, clear, crisp beers even more appealing.
The Czech pilsner is often considered to be at the top of the wide-ranging category of light golden lagers. They are wonderfully balanced beers, clean, low to modest in alcohol, crisp and easy drinking. They have floral and spicy character, often from Czech Saaz hops, which lend firm flavor, yet they avoid the bitterness that is common to styles like pale ales and IPAs. While similar to German pilsners and American big brewery light lagers, Czech pilsners are more flavorful, while remaining balanced in malty sweetness and hoppy spiciness.
Among the best known imports of the style is Pilsner Urquell. Among the best local examples is To Those Who Wait from Working Draft Beer Company. I’ve been a fan of that beer since it was first offered, not long after Working Draft opened in 2018. Madison drinkers who enjoy the Czech pilsner style will recognize the meaning behind that beer name, intended to call attention to the slow and careful brewing techniques used to create those distinctive flavors.
Presentation is also important in Czech pilsner tradition. The beer is commonly poured from a side pull handle, which allows the server to control how much foam there is in the beer. Czech brewers even have a classification system for the levels of foam at or above the glass’s rim.
For those who like Czech beers or those wanting to know more about them, Working Draft Beer Company is hosting a Czech Fest on Aug. 2-3.
Brewmaster Clint Lohman has ordered 13 side pull Czech tap handles that will replace those currently on his tap wall. Among the Czech beer offerings will be To Those Who Wait; Ten Snack, a low-alcohol lager; Rippin’ Heaterz, a light, pale lager; and Wurkvar, Working Draft’s anniversary Czech pilsner. The event will feature Czech-style food, including dumplings from Paul’s Pel’meni and goulash from the Weary Traveler Free House.
Lohman says he’s hoping to make the Czech Fest an annual event.
