Ale Asylum
Dean Coffey, Ale Asylum Brewmaster
Ale Asylum is known for making ales, especially hoppy ones. However, it really deserves more attention for its occasional lagers. For Madison Craft Beer Week, it came out with a traditional Munich dunkel that it calls Dumb and Dunkel.
What is it? Dumb and Dunkel from Ale Asylum Brewing of Madison.
Style: Dunkel means “dark” in German. This style can be deep brown, mahogany, dark bronze or almost black. The Munich Dunkel is medium- to full-bodied lager, with rich maltiness. Look for hints of bready caramel, toffee and chocolate that make for a rich, but not sticky sweet, beer. Traditional Munich dunkel will range from 4.8 to 5.3 percent ABV and is only lightly hopped at 15-25 IBUs.
The Munich Dunkel is still mostly thought of as a classic German style, and one that’s not abundant in the U.S. Among those imported are Altbayerisch Dunkel from Ayinger Brewery and Kőnig Ludwig Dunkel from the Schlossbrauerei Kaltenberg. But don’t overlook Middleton’s Capital Brewery for its Munich Dark, long a local favorite.
Background: “The Munich Dunkel is a style that I’ve been infatuated with my entire life,” says Ale Asylum brewmaster Dean Coffey. “Whenever I’m traveling around and see one, I have to get it. It’s really kind of a rare bird in beer,” he adds. Coffey also gives credit to brewer Joe Walts for developing the recipe which relies on traditional German malts and hops. “U.S. brewers tend to load dunkels up with too much caramel malt, making them syrupy sweet, and I wanted this it be closer to what you might find in Germany,” says Walts.
The brewery made just one 30-barrel batch that will be draught-only. It debuts at the Malt House on May 9 during the tavern’s Lager Love event that’s part of Madison Craft Beer Week. It will available in the brewery’s taproom beginning on May 10.
Dumb and Dunkel finishes at 5 percent ABV. In the brewery’s taproom it sells for $5/pint and $15/growler (refill).
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Solid, smooth maltinesss, with bready, biscuity earthiness.
- Appearance: Dark bronze, almost black, with a thick, soft, pillowy tan head.
- Texture: Medium- to full-bodied with lots of softness.
- Taste: Deep, rich caramel and toffee maltiness. There’s a light hint of herbal spiciness from the Hallertau hops in the background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Lingering malty flavor. Sweet, but not cloying.
Glassware: You’ll likely see this beer served in the standard American bar pint which really doesn’t do much to enhance the beer’s qualities or lend respect to Old World beer traditions. Given a choice (which you may not have in most bars/restaurants) I prefer the clear glass Frankfurt Stein for its tall cylinder and as a nod to the German origins of the style.
Pairs well with: German dishes including pork or lamb schnitzel. For vegetarians, this can be a very nice match for baked käsespatzel layered in Emmentaler cheese.
The Verdict: If you appreciate well-made malty beers, try this beer. If you like dark German lagers, you may love it. Why? There is a big difference between sweet malty beers and those rich in malt depth. If you have traveled Germany and had the pleasure of experiencing a traditional Munich Dunkel lager, you will likely understand this distinction and therefore why I’m such a big fan of this beer.
Ale Asylum’s take on the style is absolutely spot-on with its caramel and roasted toffee notes that are softened with a touch of bready pilsner malt. There’s also the subtle herbal spiciness of German Noble Hops in the background and finish. This isn’t a hoppy beer at all. A wonderful use of Hallertau Mittelfruh to complement the malts adds so much flavor complexity to the beer.