“This is my favorite IPA that we make,” says Ale Asylum brewmaster Dean Coffey. Those words alone from Coffey are enough to make hoppy beer fans thirsty for his latest beer, Dr. Vennum.
What is it? Dr. Vennum IPA from Ale Asylum Brewing of Madison.
Style: The India Pale Ale (IPA) is all about hops, which commonly reflect flavors and aromas of herbs, citrus and pine and often contribute bitterness, depending on the variety and when they are added during brewing. IPAs are medium-bodied, most often golden- to copper-colored and range in strength from 5.5 percent to 7.5 percent ABV.
Background: Dr. Vennum is indeed a showcase for hops. At its core is a new variety called Denali from the Pacific Northwest. Ale Asylum brewers personally selected them last fall while on a hop-buying trip to that region. “The first thing that grabbed me as we walked into the field was the smell of lemon and melon. We had never smelled anything like them,” says head brewer Chris Riphenburg. Denali hops, sometimes called Nuggetzilla, are rich in citrus and pine character.
Ale Asylum purchased nearly all of the Denali hops they could get their hands on from the farms they visited. The Denali are combined with Mosaic and Mandarina Bavaria, two other types of hops with their own tropical contributions of orange, tangerine and grapefruit. These are part of a new wave of hops that provide the flavor craft beer drinkers are looking for in the growing trend of full-flavored yet lighter-bodied hoppy brews.
Dr. Vennum is made with Pilsner malt to keep the color and body on the light side of what IPA lovers usually expect. It also means there’s nothing to get in the way of the hops taking over. This is not a bitter beer; it explodes with zesty lemon, orange, tangerine, melon and hints of pine.
This beer emerged from the brewery’s series of experimental brews that are merely identified by their batch number. In the case of Dr. Vennum, it was #19 and #22 a few months back that helped dial in the hops and the final recipe.
This has become one of Ale Asylum’s biggest hits, right out of the gate. Since its introduction in July, the beer has been on and off the taps in the taproom because it’s been difficult to keep up with demand. (The evening I sat down with brewery co-owner Otto Dilba, he had just gone out and purchased a six pack from a local liquor store because there was none in house.)
Dr. Vennum is actually a person. The beer is named after Dr. Amber Vennum, the daughter-in-law of brewmaster Dean Coffey, who earned her Ph.D. in marriage and family therapy and is a faculty member at Kansas State University. “We like to call her Dr. Hugs,” says Coffey. The label for this beer isn’t all that cuddly, though. The brewery has received some criticism over its depiction of a cartoonish green-skinned medical staffer showing considerable cleavage. “We didn’t set out to be polarizing. With the name Dr. Vennum, we thought it seemed like it should show a villain or a superhero character, like what you find in the comics,” says Dilba.
The brewery has gotten some blowback from those who see it as a sexist image, Dilba says, but also notes the label has stirred a range of opinions from both male and female drinkers. Others have noticed that Dr. Vennum seems to be wearing a nurse’s hat and uniform, and not that of a doctor.
Dr. Vennum IPA is intended to be a late summer seasonal that will likely be around through September. Ale Asylum plans to release Babadook, another new IPA, in early October.
Dr. Vennum finishes at 6.9 percent ABV. You’ll find it in the brewery’s taproom for $6/glass and $18/growler (refill). This is Ale Asylum’s first IPA to be sold in 12-ounce cans. Six-packs sell for $10-$11.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Fruity and tropical, with lots of citrus. Hints of pineapple, kiwi and melon.
Appearance: Clear, yellow-golden, a little lighter color than is usual for IPAs. A thick, bubbly, off-white head.
Texture: Medium-bodied and bubbly.
Taste: Assertive flavors of pineapple, orange, melon and mango.
Finish/Aftertaste: The pineapple and orange continue with a light lingering grapefruit and bitter dryness.
Glassware: The Willi Becher, with its inward flare at the lip, will focus the citrus notes of the aroma, while showing off the bright yellow-golden color.
Pairs well with: barbeque ribs, pulled pork and sweet sausages, to match up to the tropical citrus flavors. When pairing with cheese, try well-aged cheddars and blues.
The Verdict: This is an IPA loaded with juicy tropical aroma and flavor. Nothing much gets in the way of the hops. A crisp and juicy range of pineapple, kiwi, melon, orange and grapefruit washes over the palate from beginning to end. It’s one of the most flavorful and distinctive IPAs of Madison’s summer brews.
