The memoir-cum-cookbook is not a new genre, but Shauna and Daniel Ahern keep it fresh in their new book, Gluten-free Girl and the Chef (Wiley, $30). Shauna -- the Those who do not eat gluten (and those who wish to cook for them) will surely appreciate recipes that have been fine-tuned to provide satisfaction without it. Along with some valuable education on using gluten-free flours, the Aherns share recipes for gluten-free chocolate-peanut butter brownies, focaccia, apple-rosemary muffins, and more. Even if you can eat gluten, you'll be better educated about the science of baking after reading this. Taking gluten out of the equation means you must mix a few different kinds of flour to achieve all the qualities of tasty baked goods. One whole-grain flour acts as a base; another adds starch to lighten the dough or batter; another imbues the whole thing with a particular flavor. And as the Aherns are big fans of people learning to cook well and have fun with it, the book encourages lots of experimentation once you have some basics down. A large number of the book's recipes, as it happens, are not "about" gluten substitution. Think black rice with chickpeas, bok choy, and tamari sauce; prosciutto-wrapped king salmon with wild mushroom risotto; and Saigon cinnamon crème brulee. Some of the dishes, like watermelon gazpacho or baked eggs with Taleggio cheese, are very easy to make, while trout with almonds, grapes, quinoa, and kale with a lemon-marjoram vinaigrette will likely be the province of more experienced cooks. Although I can eat gluten, I'm eager to try so many of the recipes in this book. The Aherns' passion for food, and for each other, is a fun incentive to start trying something new next time I'm in the kitchen.
Cookbook cues: "Gluten-free Girl and the Chef" by Shauna James Ahern and Daniel Ahern
