Courtesy CXC Outdoor Center
Middleton High School students take advantage of CXC's manufactured snow in December.
It’s been a dismal start to the cross-country ski season in Madison. Even those willing to drive north have been shut out amid above average temperatures and dry weather. Still, despite a long-term warming trend, annual snowfall totals in Madison haven’t declined over the past 30 years. So be patient.
In fact, Madison has continued to average over 50 inches of snow each winter since 1990, with the all-time record of 101 inches coming in 2007-08. Degree heating days, perhaps the most accurate measure of winter temperatures, also don’t show much change over the past three decades.
“The findings were rather surprising,” says Steve Vavrus, Wisconsin’s state climatologist. “There is a slight warming trend in daily low temperatures but Madison’s winters have remained remarkably similar overall in terms of temperature and snowfall.”
That’s good news for those who love gliding through the woods under their own power — although forecasts for a milder “El Niño” winter have climate-anxious Nordic skiers wringing their gloved hands.
Either way, here are my suggestions for good places to cross-country ski this winter, based on 40 years of seeking out the best local trails. There’s something for everyone, including nature lovers, beginners, fitness junkies and those who can’t imagine paying to ski. I’ve also tossed in three places where they make artificial snow for cross-country skiing.
(For updated conditions visit sites like madnorski.org; skinnyski.com or Wisconsin Department of Natural Resources dnr.wisconsin.gov/topic/parks/recreation/skiing.)
Speaking of fees, a permit is now required for anyone 16 and over to use the groomed trails at Elver Park, Odana Hills Golf Course and Door Creek Park in Madison. The same permit ($8 daily, $30 annual, $15 seniors) is valid at the five Dane County Parks that offer groomed skiing. A separate State Trail Pass ($5 daily, $25 annual) is required at most Wisconsin State Parks with groomed trails, along with a vehicle admission sticker. CXC Trails in Middleton and University Ridge in Verona have their own fee policies.
Manufactured snow
CXC Outdoor Center, 4355 Schwartz Road, Middleton
Yuriy Gusev has been tireless in his efforts over the last two decades to promote cross-country skiing in the Midwest and he’s working overtime to create a top notch facility in the hills just west of Madison — including the only public machine-made snow loop in the Madison area. Those looking to get in some early skiing have already been enjoying the 1-kilometer lighted snowmaking loop. You’ll need to buy a special pass to use the snowmaking portion of the trail system but the way it’s been going this might be the year to invest in an $80 season pass, $40 for Middleton residents. CXC offers 13 kilometers of trail altogether, which encompasses a portion of the Pleasant View Golf Course. Rentals and lessons are available for skiers of all levels. (Near CXC on Blackhawk Road is the Blackhawk Ski Club, which makes snow for its downhill runs and maintains a cross country trail for use by its members only.)
Lapham Peak, County C, Delafield
Located about an hour east of Madison, Lapham Peak has over 25 kilometers of loop trails with varying levels of difficulty but it’s the snowmaking here that draws skiers from Illinois as well as Wisconsin. When fully covered, the snowmaking trail here is nearly 3 kilometers, much of it wooded, with lights for night skiing. A state trail pass is required in addition to vehicle admission sticker.
Ariens Nordic Center, 1111 Round Lake Road, Brillion
Yes, the snowblower people have developed an amazing biathlon and cross-country ski center that features 5k of lighted trails with full snowmaking. Located about two hours from Madison and 10 miles west of Appleton, this place might be worth exploring if the snow drought continues. Daily fee $15, $99 season with discounts for kids and seniors.
Favorite spots
Elver Park, 1250 McKenna Blvd.
Probably the most popular cross-country ski venue in town, Elver boasts a solid 12 kilometers of ski trail (5 kilometers with lights) groomed for both classic and skating techniques. Madison Parks offers ski rentals in the warming house on Wednesdays through Sundays. Trails are groomed regularly through a partnership between the city and the Madison Nordic Ski Club, a local group that offers youth programs, lessons for all ages, and a weekly race series open to the public. Volunteers with Madnorski and Central Cross Country Skiing had for several years maintained a machine-made snow loop at Elver Park but that partnership with the city ended in 2021. New this year at Elver is a classic-only loop on top of the sledding hill that offers a stunning view of the state Capitol building some seven miles to the east.
Blue Mound State Park, 4350 Mounds Park Road, Blue Mounds
Sitting atop the highest point in southern Wisconsin, Blue Mound usually gets more snow than Madison and is a longtime favorite both for its driftless area scenery and reliable grooming. Blue Mound has 15 kilometers of wooded, hilly, classic technique only trails along with a 1-kilometer skating loop in the campground. A 2015 Department of Natural Resources proposal to site a new snowmobile trail through a portion of the park sparked a major controversy and led to a pair of lawsuits from the Friends of Blue Mound State Park, challenging the plan and alleged threats made against the citizen group by DNR officials. Both cases remain tied up in court. “Bottom line, nobody is building a snowmobile trail before the snow flies this winter,” says Brian Potts, an attorney representing the Friends group.
Odana Hills Golf Course, 4635 Odana Road
Sure, it’s a golf course but Odana Hills features 10 kilometers of easy to rolling terrain for classic and skate skiing along with consistent grooming from Madison Parks. Rentals are available on weekends inside the golf clubhouse. You’ll hear noise from the Beltline Highway but with its central location and wide trails, Odana remains a popular spot for skiers of all ages and abilities.
McCarthy County Park, 4841 County TT, Cottage Grove
East siders need some ski love too and McCarthy has emerged as a great stop for those who don’t want to make the longer drive to Lapham Peak or the Kettle Moraine trails at Nordic and McMiller. Volunteer-groomed for both classic and skate technique, McCarthy features nearly 10 kilometers of hills and flats, open and wooded trails suitable for all abilities. No warming house.
University Ridge Golf Course, 9002 County PD, Verona
University Ridge derives its name from features left by the last retreating glacier and is popular with racers looking for a good workout. There are 17 kilometers of trails groomed for skate and classical skiing winding through the 560 acres. Rentals are available in the golf course clubhouse. Separate pass required fee but UW students and faculty get a discount.
Emily Maryniak
Other options
Lake Kegonsa State Park, 2405 Door Creek Road, Stoughton
There’s about 8 kilometers of trail here groomed for skate and classic with a mix of flats and hills. “Lake K” has its fans and there is plenty to like here when conditions are good.
Governor Nelson State Park, 5140 County M, Waunakee
Things can be hit or miss at Nelson where the grooming is inconsistent and conflicts with hikers/dog walkers seems a nagging issue. But when things come together, this is a great place for a long ski outing with 9 kilometers of trails to get your heart rate up while enjoying views of Lake Mendota.
Indian Lake County Park, 8183 Highway 19, Cross Plains
Back in the day, Indian Lake with its 15 kilometers of hilly trails and rustic warming cabin was one of the most popular venues around. But over the years, skiers have found themselves sharing the narrow classic technique trails with runners, snowshoers and hikers also out enjoying winter. Dane County is now in the process of drafting a new management plan for the 800-acre park which will improve access for users but eliminates some of the ski trails.
Door Creek Park, 7035 Littlemore Drive
Madison Parks is looking to offer more cross-country skiing in the fast-growing east side and Door Creek has benefitted. There’s about 5 kilometers of classic only trails here but it’s a work in progress. Also, a ski permit is now required, a change from last season.
Lake Farm County Park, 4330 Libby Road
If you catch it right after a grooming, Lake Farm and the adjacent Nine Springs E-Way offers a pleasant surprise close to downtown with a chance to ski along the shores of Lake Waubesa. There’s a candlelight ski scheduled here on Friday, Jan. 19 at the Lussier Center.
CamRock County Park, 136 County B, Cambridge
Don’t overlook this spot on the far eastern edge of Dane County. There’s nearly 10 kilometers of classic-only trails here with some hills and a flat section that follows Koshkonong Creek. If there’s no snow, bring the fat bike.
Ski free or die
UW Arboretum, 1207 Seminole Highway
Many aging boomers got their XC ski start here, tromping around on the 10 miles of trails that wind through the 1,200 acres in the heart of the city. It’s a step back to the days when skiers made their own tracks, wore knickers and carried a wine skin or doobie.
Olin Turville Park, 1156 Olin Turville Court
Views of Lake Monona and the downtown are the rewards for skiers on the 4 kilometers of easy to intermediate trails here. Madison Parks only grooms occasionally for classic skiing but it’s free.
Owen Conservation Park, 6021 Old Sauk Road
There’s not a lot of trail here but the city grooms for classic skiing and it’s worth a visit right after a snowfall. Surprisingly nice view of Lake Mendota and downtown from the high point.
[Editor's note: this story has been edited to reflect that CXC is the only public course in the area making snow; and that Blackhawk Ski Club also makes snow but is open to members only.]
