Robin Shepard
Without bock beer, there may not ever have been a Great Dane Pub and Brewery in Madison. “There were two bock beers, Aventinus from Schneider and Sohns and Kneitinger, that made me want to be a brewer, and are the reason the Great Dane exists,” says brewery co-owner Rob LoBreglio.
LoBreglio discovered the style while traveling in Germany nearly 30 years ago with his brother. “Aventinus was the first beer that made the clouds part and light shine through,” says LoBreglio. “It was the single most memorable beer drinking experience in my life — that made me want to start homebrewing, which led to everything else.”
The Great Dane pays homage to this traditional German style Feb. 10 with its annual Bockfest.
Bock beers emerged centuries ago in Germany and are associated with special occasions and the winter months. They are known for their malty sweetness and velvety smooth hints of breadiness, caramel and chocolate. Bocks are usually balanced and clean beers, sometimes finishing with alcoholic warmth. Extra rich, strong versions, such as doppelbocks, became known for providing sustenance while people were fasting during Lent.
The cult of the bock is unlike the current craze for IPAs with its focus on hops. With bocks, it’s all about malt — and all about what German malts, and to some extent what German hops, are used.
The Great Dane takes making bock beers seriously. “Not even in Germany is there anyone who has the commitment to bocks that we do,” says LoBreglio.
It’s rare to find a brewery that makes 13 different bocks. Even in Germany a single brewery might have only have a couple — commonly a bock and a doppelbock. The Great Dane makes a range of sub-categories that includes light and dark doppelbocks, weizenbocks and rauchbocks.
Over the years its Bockfest has become a showcase for this wide variety. The fest is unique in the sheer number of bock varieties that are served at one time at a single location.
One brew on tap is one of LoBreglio’s favorite creations, Oktoppelbock, which combines the fall Oktoberfest style with the strength of a doppelbock.
LoBreglio describes it as “an American style,” in that it’s a hybrid, yet “very Germanic in its heart,” with rich German malts and Hallertau Mittelfrüh hops.
In addition to Oktoppelbock, The Great Dane will feature a dozen more of its own bocks: Nitro Buzz Coffee, Golden, Bourbon Golden, Caramel Weizenbock, Tangerine Dream, Über, Eis Über, Velvet Hammer, Eis Velvet Hammer, John Jacob, Eis John Jacob and Barista.
All in all, nearly 30 bocks are expected to be offered, including those from the seven other participating breweries. Expected to attend are Capital Brewery, Karben4 Brewing, Lakefront Brewery, Next Door Brewing Company, Rockhound Brewing Company, Vintage Brewing Company and Wisconsin Brewing Company.
The event runs from noon until 5 p.m. on Feb. 10 at the Hilldale Great Dane. Tickets, $35, are for sale online and at all area Great Dane locations. A raffle will benefit The Road Home Dane County.
