Robin Shepard
IPAs and IIPAs are some of the most preferred beer styles these days. Many hop-centric brews seem to be in a race to out-bitter each other. I’m more reserved in what I like in a hoppy beer — I look for something solidly hopped with a bit of malt sweetness for balance. Among those I consider the best of the current crop is Potosi’s Hopsmith.
What is it? Hopsmith Imperial IPA from the Potosi Brewing Company
Style: The Imperial India Pale Ale (IIPA), also called a double IPA, has deep golden to reddish-amber color and medium- to full-bodied mouthfeel. These big, bold IPAs are known for a strong hop profile with resiny, piney and/or citrus tones, depending upon the type of hops in the recipe. There should be some maltiness that lends balance and flavor complexity. Strength may range from 7.5% to 10% ABV.
Background: Hopsmith IIPA is the hoppiest beer in Potosi’s portfolio at an estimated 83 IBUs (International Bitterness Units). The brewery has offered it as a summer seasonal since 2011. This year, brewmaster Steve McCoy tweaked the recipe a bit with a potpourri of hops that includes Millennium, New Port and Zythos (which is itself a blend of hops), with Mosaic added in dry hopping. That hop bill lends a range of herbal, piney and citrus qualities. It also has a rich malty backbone of brewer’s two-row and Munich malts with a touch of flaked barley for body and head retention. It all blends nicely with the hops. Hopsmith finishes at 9.1% ABV. It’s sold in four-packs of 16 ounce cans for around $9.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A subtle bready maltiness with hints of citrus hoppiness.
Appearance: Clear, orange-copper color. A medium, soft, tan head.
Texture: Full-bodied, round, with softness and a smooth alcohol warmth throughout.
Taste: Herbal and pine hoppiness up front before a wave of citrus from the Mosaic hops comes in strong. It also has a firm malty background that lends balance and spicy sweetness.
Finish/Aftertaste: Even with a fair amount of malty balance, the hops dominate and eventually linger, with citrus notes and bitter dryness.
Glassware: I prefer a chilled (but not frozen) clear glass mug. Serve Hopsmith cold (at less than 40 degrees) if you want to bring out its hoppiness. Choose a thick glass that will insulate the beer, allowing it to warm to room temperature slowly. That will allow more herbal and spicy complexity to emerge.
Pairs well with: I like spicy foods (Cajun dishes, even pizzas) with IIPAs. They do well with Cajun to pizza. If pairing with cheeses, look for assertive flavors from such cheeses as Stilton, sharp cheddars or blue.
The Verdict: Hopsmith has become a hoppy go-to beer for me this summer; it’s one of the most solid IIPAs around. Its blend of hops gives it herbal, earthy, piney and citrus notes, yet with a malt background. It’s hop-forward, full-bodied and strong. Yet the balance with the malt lends enough depth and a spicy complexity to make it very interesting. This is an IIPA that succeeds because it doesn’t try too hard to hit the palate with raw hoppiness. This is a great IIPA for those who enjoy the style, one of the best you’ll find right now. However, McCoy only made one 60-barrel batch this summer — so it may not be around long.
