House of Brews is looking forward to big changes in 2016. It’s planning at least four lagers, all new additions to its seasonal releases. And, because of the popularity of 16-ounce cans with craft beer drinkers, it’s looking to install its own canning line. To date it has been canning select styles using a private contractor.
House of Brews has served as incubator for a number of budding beer makers. Perhaps the most successful so far has been MobCraft Beer, which is in the process of building its own new brewery in the Walker’s Point neighborhood of Milwaukee. The departure of MobCraft will free up space in the brewery, which is why House of Brews can venture into making lagers — which take longer to make and tie up fermenters for aging and conditioning. Up first is a winner of a lager, a smooth malty doppelbock with a catchy name, Jailhouse Bock.
What is it? Jailhouse Bock by House of Brews of Madison.
Style: The doppelbock is a full-bodied, deep amber to dark brown lager. Its flavor should feature malty sweetness, especially lightly toasted caramel and chocolate malt character. Fruity esters can be common but not overwhelming. Hop bitterness is evident but not excessive. The doppelbock will have a strong alcoholic strength ranging from 6.5% to 8% ABV.
Background: “I’ve always wanted to do a bock, and I’ve always wanted to call it Jailhouse Bock,” says Page Buchanan, owner of House of Brews. I stopped by the brewery earlier this month for a taste and found Buchanan and a few friends sharing a beer. It didn’t take much encouragement for Buchanan and friends to break into the Elvis Presley hit with a similar name.
Jailhouse Bock is a straightforward doppelbock, and it’s all about malt. The recipe includes a combination of eight different ones, leaving a beer that’s deep bronze, almost black, with rich, smooth sweetness.
House of Brews Jailhouse Bock finishes around 8% ABV. It’s currently on draught at the brewery ($4.50/glass, $14/growler refill) and it can be found at a handful of local taverns. By February, it will be available in 22-ounce bomber bottles for around $7-$8.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Light, firm maltiness, with a touch of fruity esters.
Appearance: Deep, dark bronze, almost black color. A medium soft, bubbly tan head.
Texture: Full-bodied and round.
Taste: Smooth with hints of caramel and chocolate. Its main flavor is inviting, with a soft malty warmth and light fruity sweetness.
Finish/Aftertaste: Malty and warm with a mild dryness.
Glassware: The footed pilsner is a great glass for the doppelbock. Its height and inward taper at the lip focus the malty nose and show off the beer's brilliant deep bronze hues.
Pairs well with: The doppelbock goes well with German foods, from sausage to schnitzel. It’s also very nice with cheeses like gouda and smoked Swiss. Jailhouse Bock will do well with those standards as well as stewed and roasted dishes.
The Verdict: This ranks as one of my favorite Page Buchanan beers. It’s a full-bodied doppelbock with lots of caramel and biscuit sweetness. I welcome the arrival of this beer in 22-ounce bomber bottles, which are just right for a hearty meal (for two) focused on comfort foods rich in earthy flavors and roasted meats, especially stews. While sweet, there’s a pleasant dryness to the finish that allows it to remain clean and avoid becoming cloying or sticky. This is a doppelbock that fans of the style should be sure to try.
