Robin Shepard
Jessica Jones says the Burton ale has been a surprise hit.
Sometimes accidents in the brew house turn into some of the best beers. Giant Jones did not intentionally set out to make an obscure Burton ale, but brewer Jessica Jones is certainly amazed and happy with the reception it has been getting. So much so, she’s thinking this beer could find a regular place on the brewery’s taps.
What is it? Burton ale from Giant Jones Brewing Company.
Style: Burton ale is a rich, strong, amber ale. It evolved in the 1700s, or earlier, as a group of brown beers from Burton-on-Trent, the same town in England which is often cited as the birthplace for the pale ale and IPA. Burton ale likely predated those specific styles. As hops became more prominent among Burton brewers the IPA took hold and less hoppy ambers fell into the broad category known as Burton ale. By the early 1800s their popularity had declined to a point that they were nearly extinct had it not been for a few brewers who kept making them and refining the blend of malts and hops. The style eventually became an amber to reddish-copper ale, often strong and approaching 10 percent ABV. They are medium- to full-bodied and flavorful in their balance of malts and hops. There are currently very few commercially packaged examples of Burton ale available, with the exception of Pabst’s Ballantine Burton ale.
Background: Jessica Jones first released Burton ale late last winter as a single batch that quickly sold out. “It was a surprise. It has been our fastest selling beer,” says Jones. What’s more, that first batch was not something that Jones really set out to specifically make. “I had an idea for a British barleywine and as I went down that path with the initial brew it ended up being not as bold or as strong as I thought a barley wine should be. But it was still so delicious,” adds Jones.
After several other beers took center stage during the summer months Jones moved production of Burton ale back on the schedule for this fall. Given its popularity it is likely to be around for several months, possibly into early next year. “People just go for it. I can’t explain it because there’s really no current Burton ale out there as a reference point,” says Jones. As a strong amber ale it falls in between a more robust malty barleywine and an assertively hopped IPA.
At the core of Jones’ Burton ale is the English floor-malted Maris Otter malt that lends soft bready-biscuit notes. There is also a small amount of Belgian biscuit malt that darkens its color. The hops are a blend of Golding and Pacific Gem which combine for notes of orange-citrus sweetness with a hint of spicy herbal warmth. All Giant Jones beers are USDA certified organic, which lends some challenges in obtaining ingredients. The Golding hops are especially difficult to get, and their availability will contribute to how often Jones can make this beer.
For those who closely follow the artwork on Giant Jones’ beer labels this one features Boudica, the female warrior queen of Iceni who refused to be bullied by the Roman Empire and rallied the Gauls to resist an invasion into Wales around 60 A.D.
Giant Jones Burton ale finishes at 9.6 percent ABV. It sells for $6/glass and $6/500 mL bottle in the Giant Jones taproom.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Bready, biscuit tones.
- Appearance: Amber-copper color. A medium, bubbly and tan head.
- Texture: Medium- to full-bodied with round-softness.
- Taste: Rich bready-biscuit sweetness. The hops offer balance with their notes of subtle sweet orange-citrus and just a hint of spiciness.
- Finish/Aftertaste: The citrus and spicy notes linger alongside bready maltiness. While full of flavor and a rich ending, overall, this beer finishes clean and slightly dry.
Glassware: The Belgian-style tulip glass will show off this beer’s deep amber-copper hues, while the slight outward taper of the glass allows its bready aroma to expand under the nose.
Pairs well with: Asiago cheese to entrees featuring smoked meats. The beer’s deep malt complexity is ideal for a touch of smoke. I recently matched it with apple wood smoked pork loin and was amazed by the combination of malty-sweetness and citrus-orange notes of the hops. The beer provides something like a rich spicy-sweet glaze to the smoke.
The Verdict: Whether you are a regular of the brewery or need a reason to visit for the first time this beer is worth checking out in the Giant Jones taproom. I admit I’m drawn to historical beer recreations; however, it still has to be a beer that is flavorful and true to its origins. Jessica Jones shows little fear in making big, strong beers and turning to history for inspiration. Even if this was a happy accident, I hope this beer stays around. It has rich bready sweetness from Maris Otter, a malt that when used in the right way can really make a wonderful beer. And, that malty backbone is matched up seamlessly with a spicy and orange-tropical blend of hops. This beer is complex, rich and flavorful, and it’s among Jones’ best beers yet.
