Since opening three years ago, Karben4 has been staking out territory as a brewery known for hops. Its Fantasy Factory has helped it carve out a niche among those who enjoy IPAs. The brewery’s newest packaged beer is Dragon Flute, an American pale ale. It hits local shelves this month. It’s a beer that will appeal to those looking for solid hop aroma and flavor, yet something that is dialed back a bit.
What is it? Dragon Flute from Karben4 Brewing of Madison.
Style: The pale ale is a medium-bodied beer known for its firm yet medium-to-high hop flavor and aroma. American pale ales feature U.S.-grown hop varieties that are often strong in citrus or resiny character. (English pale ales tend to be less assertive, with more herbal and grassy tones.) American pale ales range from 4.5% to 5.5% ABV and 30-50 IBUs. Dragon Flute is similar but a little lighter in body and strength than its brewery sibling, Fantasy Factory, an India Pale Ale (IPA).
Background: Dragon Flute made its initial, and rather brief, appearance last summer as a draught-only taproom beer. However, brewmaster Ryan Koga says it held its own so well next to hoppy stalwarts like Fantasy Factory and Idiot Farm (IIPA) that it became a logical candidate for bottles. Over the past summer, Dragon Flute emerged as one of Karben4’s best sellers, capturing strong reviews and the brewery’s highest marks on websites like BeerAdvocate. “We consider it one of our best. The flavors and aromas are spectacular,” says Koga. The beer’s signature character comes from a combination of a Mosaic and Centennial hops. However, it’s the Mosaic that really shines. Mosaic hops can offer many different aromas and flavors — berry fruitiness, tropical citrus and spicy herbal (thus the name mosaic). “When you hop with Mosaic it’s hard to put your finger on exactly what that hop is about,” says Koga.
This is currently the only beer Karben4 makes with Mosaic hops, which are challenging to obtain because they are highly sought after by craft brewers. Koga didn’t have a seller under contract for the hops right away, which was one reason this beer didn’t come out for so long after its introduction in May 2015. Koga says he expects it to stay around until mid-summer when the seasonal Idiot Farm returns. However, he’s keeping his options open: “We’ll have to see if it’s popular enough to become a permanent year-round beer.”
Dragon Flute finishes at 5.3% ABV. It sells in the brewery’s taproom for $4.75/glass and $13/growler (refill). Six-packs are expected to start appearing in mid- to late April.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Fruity, lightly tropical.
Appearance: Bright golden copper, with a medium bubbly tan head.
Texture: Medium-bodied and bubbly.
Taste: The herbal, tropical Mosaic hops lead and are up front in the flavor profile. The Centennials are also there in the background
Finish/Aftertaste: Crisp and dry.
Glassware: Karben4 serves this beer in goblet-like glass (similar to a large snifter) with a slight inward flare near the lip that helps hold the head and focus the nose. A great glass for this beer!
Pairs well with: Dragon Flute has enough hoppiness for a variety of entrée companions, ranging from grilled meats to mildly spicy dishes. From the Karben4 menu, my favorite choices for this beer include the Midwest Muffaletta, the smoked Polish sausage, and the Mash Fed Bacon Spinach Tomato sandwich topped with avocado-cumin aioli.
The Verdict: Karben4 continues to impress hoppy beer fans, and Dragon Flute is part of the reason. I’m among those who like this beer. Much of my enthusiasm comes from how the hops play with the taste buds. There a little something different in every sip, stemming from the Mosaic’s collage of aroma and flavor. This is a nice addition to Karben4’s hoppy portfolio. As an APA it’s an alternative to Koga’s bolder brews like Fantasy Factory and Idiot Farm. It’s not tame, and shouldn’t be confused with thin session versions of pale ales or IPAs. Rather, this is a solid APA that delivers hops while respecting your palate enough that a second glass or bottle is more than welcome.
