Robin Shepard
The latest in the Leinenkugel "Big Eddy" series of specialty beers shows off Wisconsin honey in a braggot called Royal Nektar.
What is it? Royal Nektar from the Jacob Leinenkugel Brewing Company of Chippewa Falls.
Style: The braggot, also called bracket or brackett, is closely related to mead, one of the oldest alcoholic beverages. Meads are made with honey; when made with malt and honey, they're braggots. Honey is easily fermented by yeast, so it lends strength and some sweetness to the brew without adding much body. Braggots can be quite strong, often ranging from 6% to 12% ABV. They also age well when cellared.
Background: The Big Eddy series is brewed at the Tenth and Blake Beer Company in Milwaukee, a facility dedicated to special brews from MillerCoors. The name Big Eddy refers to the Big Eddy Springs that supplied the original Leinenkugel Brewery in Chippewa Falls with water in the 1800s.
The recipe for Royal Nektar has been in the works for over a year. Brewer Dave Hansen calls it a straightforward braggot, except that it shows off a lot of cranberry blossom honey from Wisconsin. “We add about 1,400 pounds of honey to a batch, which is about one ounce of honey per bottle,” he says. Cranberry blossom honey is considered somewhat rare because it occurs in summer when the cranberries bloom before other surrounding wildflowers. Some farmers lease bee hives that are brought into the bogs to help in cranberry pollination.
The beer is also made with pale and rye malts. It is lightly hopped with Willamette, and fermented with a Belgian abbey yeast. Royal Nektar is the first braggot produced by Tenth and Blake/Leinenkugel. It has mead flavors, while being lighter in malt character next to the well-aged, barleywine-based Beyond Braggot from Sprecher Brewing.
Big Eddy Royal Nektar finishes at 9.5% ABV. It sells in four-packs for around $12. Interest in the beer has been strong, so there’s a good chance it’ll be brought back next year.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A light floral sweetness, just a hint of honey.
Appearance: Clear, orange-copper body. A full-bubble off-white to light tan head quickly becomes thin and soft.
Texture: Initially comes off medium-bodied and smooth; however, the warmth (almost a burn) of alcohol in the finish says this is much more than medium-bodied.
Taste: The honey hits up front with floral aroma and sweetness. There’s a hint of fruity sweetness that comes in a little later in the background.
Finish/Aftertaste: Both floral and fruity sweetness come out with a light smoky roasted flavor from the cooked honey. The beer offers balance in its flavors, with lots of spice and warmth in the end.
Glassware: The snifter-style glass makes sipping easy and allows the beer to show different character as it slowly warms.
Pairs well with: Best as an after-dinner drink. Serve it cold from the refrigerator and slowly sip as it comes to room temperature. You’ll experience a transformation of the drink from the sweetness of honey and malt to the spiciness of rye to yeasty-fruitiness it warms. For a special treat, try it as a dessert alongside tiramisu.
Rating: Three Bottle Openers.
The Verdict: Royal Nektar is one reason the Big Eddy series has been catching the attention of craft beer aficionados. Braggots are rare, and there’s a Wisconsin bent here as it’s made with local cranberry blossom honey.
Royal Nektar offers a lot of mead character. The honey is a big part of its overall flavor profile. I like a braggot that offers up the honey first and foremost, and Royal Nektar does that.
This is a deceptively big beer at 9.5% ABV. The rye malt lends spicy qualities and a boozy/spirit-like burn in the finish. I really want to see what happens with a little aging. By the end of the year, this could be wonderfully mellow and an even better treat.
