Robin Shepard
Antigo silt loam is our official state soil, the robin our state bird. So craft beer enthusiasts unite – let’s make the milk stout our official state beer! After all, what beverage speaks more to a Badger’s heart? There’s beer and milk in the same glass! Given that, New Glarus brewmaster Dan Carey admits he’s had fun developing his newest beer.
What is it? Milk Stout from New Glarus Brewing Company
Style: Milk stouts originated in Europe in the 1800s. The style emphasizes a malty sweetness with hints of chocolate and caramel. They are sometimes called cream stouts or sweet stouts. Brewers may also add milk sugar (lactose), which is unfermentable, to give it additional sweetness and body. This type of stout is not hoppy, just bitter enough to lend some balance to a solid malty sweetness. Roasted flavors from the malts should also be low. Milk stouts range in alcohol from 3%-6% ABV.
Background: It’s a little surprising that the milk stout hasn’t caught on more. Lake Louie and O’so both have a seasonal version of the style. This is New Glarus’ first milk stout, released through its limited-release Thumbprint series, packaged in four-packs.
In addition to American, English, German and Czech malts, Carey adds a touch of milk lactose, which imparts a subtle sweetness. Its soft texture also helps call attention to the chocolate and caramel tones from all those malts. While bitterness takes a back seat, this beer does have enough Hallertau and Czech Saaz hops to offer some balance and a clean finish. Carey developed the recipe over several months last fall, using test batches to dial in the malt and lactose. “We really wanted to make a dark beer because of the time of year – a stout is nice to have when it gets cold,” says Carey.
New Glarus milk stout finishes around 6% ABV. It sells in four-packs for around $11.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: A malty nose with light roasted and toffee tones.
Appearance: Black body with bronze highlights, and a modest soft tan head.
Texture: Medium-bodied with softness.
Taste: Smooth sweetness with hints of roasted chocolate and soft caramel maltiness.
Finish/Aftertaste: A pleasant, smooth, malty ending that remains clean and balanced.
Glassware: I like the English pint for the milk stout, especially as a nod to the origins of the style. Serving it warm greatly enhances its soft and malty qualities. New Glarus’ take on the style was even more enjoyable the closer it got to room temperature.
Pairs well with: Buttery cheeses like fontina and asiago will go well with its malty sweetness. It’s also a nice beer with desserts featuring mild chocolate flavors.
The Verdict: This is a very easy-drinking medium-bodied stout. I like it for its subtle chocolate and caramel flavors from the malts, which are complemented by the subtle sweetness and softness of the lactose. This milk stout is very approachable. It’s a great example of how not all black beers are thick and filling. While I was looking for a little more richness, this is a milk stout that, unlike some, doesn’t overdo the lactose. Rather, it’s a pleasant stout that is flavorful and inviting of a second glass.
