Robin Shepard
Working Draft’s Clint Lohman (left) and WBC’s Kirby Nelson.
When Working Draft Beer opened this past March, it had a string of collaborative beers on tap, made with the help other local breweries. One was a wild rice bock from Working Draft brewmaster Clint Lohman and Kirby Nelson of Wisconsin Brewing. Now the two have teamed up again to make a Belgian tripel marking Wisconsin Brewing’s 5th anniversary.
What is it? Orelia,from Wisconsin Brewing Company and Working Draft Beer Company.
Style: Belgian tripels are medium-bodied, bright yellow to deep golden beers. Their aromas and flavors can be very complex, with floral, fruity and spicy qualities. Tripels get distinctive character from the yeasts used to make them, which impart hints of banana and citrus intermingled with earthy, spicy dryness. Tripels commonly range from 7.5 to 9.5 percent ABV.
Background: Orelia, French for “golden,” was brewed in the Working Draft brew house run by Clint Lohman. A little more than a year ago, Lohman was employed by Wisconsin Brewing and working for Kirby Nelson. “Kirby is generous with his time and ideas,” says Lohman of his friend, who actually officiated at Lohman’s wedding. Nelson admires Lohman’s respect for brewing traditions and “the old-school way of making beer.”
Orelia has been in the works for nearly three years. It first appeared as a pilot batch that was unveiled at the Isthmus Beer and Cheese Fest in 2015. That initial recipe was developed by former Wisconsin Brewing brewer Rochelle Francois (now with New Glarus Brewing) and a group of woman brewing colleagues. It was the beer that became the basis for Common Thread 2015. The following December, Lohman and Francois convinced Nelson to use some Amarillo hops that had been lying around the brew house and dry-hopped the tripel, creating yet another rendition worthy of follow-up at the Isthmus Beer and Cheese Festival in January 2016.
I’m so happy to see this beer again. Nelson and Lohman make it with Pilsner malt and Belgian candi sugar that gives it 10.1 percent ABV. It was fermented with a distinctive stain of yeast used by the Brasserie D’Achouffee of Belgium. The hop bill includes Hallertau and Magnum in the main brewing phase, then it’s dry-hopped with Amarillo which give it lots of juicy hoppiness well beyond what one expects to find in a Belgian tripel.
Orelia is available on tap at Wisconsin Brewing Company beginning Nov. 15; it’s one of Wisconsin Brewing’s throwback beers celebrating its 5th anniversary. Other special releases that day include wild rice bock maibock and a gose. Orelia will be on tap in the Working Draft taproom beginning Nov. 16. If the beer develops a following, Nelson may sell it in 12-ounce cans.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Yeastiness offers hints of banana, mixed with the citrus notes from the Amarillo hops.
- Appearance: Hazy, yellow golden, with a thick, soft, white head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied and bubbly.
- Taste: Fruity yeastiness is up front with the banana; then lots of tropical citrus hoppiness with grapefruit, orange and lemon. There’s also a light spiciness in the background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Citrus hoppiness; dry.
Glassware: The Belgian tulip glass is great for showing off the beer’s bright yellow-golden color and focusing the tropical hoppiness under the nose.
Pairs well with: chicken, fish, and Asian dishes.
The Verdict: This is a very nice Belgian tripel with solid yeasty aroma and flavor, with bright bubbly effervescence. Rich weizen-like character comes from the yeast, even a touch of bubblegum sweetness. The Amarillo dry-hopping and citrus notes really add to the Belgian profile, lending lots of orange and grapefruit. That tropical sharpness really complements the dry finish. Put this one on your list, especially if you enjoy tripels!
