Robin Shepard
Octopi Brewing opened its new production facility in Waunakee last fall. It makes beers under contract for others while producing its own in-house brands with the 3rd Sign label. For summer, 3rd Sign’s lineup will include a Belgian-inspired wheat beer called Pollux that starts appearing in Madison this week.
What is it? Pollux from 3rd Sign of Waunakee.
Style: The witbier or Belgian wit (white) beer is commonly made with unmalted wheat and pale barley malt. This style has a distinctive spiciness from additions of coriander and an accent of citrus from orange peel. Before hops became a common component in beer, spices like coriander were used. The wit is light- to medium-bodied, a hazy pale straw to light golden color, with a smooth or creamy texture from the wheat malt. Wits range in strength from 4.8% to 5.6% ABV.
Background: Octopi’s house label, 3rd Sign, releases beers in pairs — that’s why it is named for the third sign of the Zodiac, Gemini (the twins). Brewery owner Isaac Showaki likes to take a beer and make two different versions of it, hence, the name. This release, Pollux, is paired with its sibling, Castor — the two main stars in Gemini. Castor is a hoppy version of a wheat beer.
To make Pollux, Showaki relies on a core Belgian wit with a high percentage of wheat malt and a touch of flaked oats. Coriander and lime peel are added to the beer at the end of the boil using a hop back, a device that works much like a water filter, only in reverse. A unique adjunct to the beer is soursop, also called guanábana. It’s a South American fruit that lends slightly sweet citrus flavors of pineapple, strawberry and banana. About 180 pounds of the fruit are added to a 100-barrel batch of beer. “It lends a softer flavor that really makes this wit different,” says Showaki.
Pollux finishes at 4.5% ABV and 32 IBUs. It’s available in four-packs for around $7 each.
Tasting notes:
Aroma: Light, yeasty aroma.
Appearance: Hazy, bright golden color with a medium/modest soft, off-white head.
Texture: Light-bodied and bubbly.
Taste: The light mustiness of the Belgian yeast comes in early, along with a suggestion of lime before the spicy accent of coriander is noticed. The soursop is way in the background, a subtle soft-sweetness; however, you really have to concentrate to find it.
Finish/Aftertaste: Light yeastiness, with a dryness that lingers.
Glassware: The weizen glass will show off the beer's color and focus the light aromas of coriander and lime.
Pairs well with: Wit beers like Pollux are light, bubbly and refreshing on hot days. This one is a nice companion to summer lunches like salads, cold deli sandwiches and other picnic fare.
The Verdict: The beers of 3rd Sign have not caught much of my attention until now. After visiting the brewery’s Waunakee taproom a few times, I wasn’t too excited about the initial selection of styles (including IPAs and English/American milds). However, on a recent visit I discovered Pollux — although a version infused with peach puree. Pollux is an interesting twist on the Belgian wit style. What I like about this beer is the different path it takes. Sure, there’s the expected coriander and Belgian yeastiness; however, the hint of lime gives it a crisp, even edgy citrus accent, while the soursop comes in later and softens that a bit with light sweetness. The soursop works well with the soft, wheaty background. This is a nice entry into Madison’s early summer beer lineup. And, oh yeah, visit the taproom for the peach puree version. It’s even better.
