Good City Brewing is part of a vibrant Milwaukee craft beer scene. More than a dozen new breweries have opened there in the past year and a half. Good City debuted in June, 2016, in the Lower East Side neighborhood. Its beer began being distributed in Madison about nine months ago.The latest Good City brew is a limited-release, wine-barrel-aged saison called Santé.
What is it? Santé Saison from Good City Brewing in Milwaukee.
Style: Saisons are generally a seasonal beer offering and at their height in popularity from late spring through summer. They originated as a farmhouse beer in the French-speaking region of Belgium. They are light- to medium-bodied, golden to copper colored, with yeasty spiciness and fruitiness. Good ones often have a distinctive dry finish. They range in strength from 4.5 to 8.5 percent ABV.
Background: Good City Brewing has been making its mark with hop-forward beers. Twelve-ounce cans of Reward (IIPA), Risk (IPA) and Motto (a Mosaic-hopped pale ale) can be found in Madison.
Santé is a new release in the spirit of a classic saison, but it’s aged for six months in French oak barrels that previously contained California chardonnay. “We consider ourselves hop-heads, but these barrel-aged beers give us some freedom to do something different,” says brewery co-owner David Dupee. Santé is the fourth release in an ongoing series of barrel-aged beers that launch in the brewery’s Milwaukee taproom before they’re sold in liquor stores in large-format bottles. Dupee estimates his brewery has made roughly two-dozen different ales and lagers since opening the taproom.
Good City brewer Andy Jones is familiar with barrel-aging from working at Goose Island Brewing in Chicago and the Lakefront Brewery in Milwaukee. Jones turned to the saison because it’s one of his favorites styles. Santé grew out of a straight saison that he made for a taproom release last spring. This version of Santé was initially released in late September in the taproom and it took a few weeks to make its way into Madison distribution channels. As a limited-release it might take some looking around to find. When you do, grab it because it won’t be around long. The next in the series will be Density, a barrel-aged imperial stout that comes out in mid-December.
Santé is packaged in 750 mL bottles that sell for around $13/each. It finishes at 7 percent ABV.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Yeasty and floral.
- Appearance: Hazy, orange-golden to copper color. A medium-bubbly light tan head. This is a bottle-conditioned beer, so expect some residual yeast and sediment to accumulate in the bottom of the bottle. Rousing the bottle will increase cloudiness while also bringing out more earthy and fruity qualities.
- Texture: Medium-bodied, bubbly, with softness.
- Taste: The yeasty, earthy tones and a faint fruity sourness are up front. Then a floral sweetness and subtle mustiness set in.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Dry, with a very light hint of spicy pepper. The sweet notes of oak and chardonnay linger in the finish.
Glassware: The stemmed tulip is the go-to glass for the saison. It shows off color and, with its outward lip, allows aromas to emerge.
Pairs well with: grilled fish, and cheeses like mild, musty Kasseri or the soft semi-sweetness of Muenster. But in all honesty, this beer goes well with a wide range of foods. Serve Santé very cold to accentuate the dry spiciness, or allow it to warm slightly to accentuate its sweeter side of oak and chardonnay.
The Verdict: Good City deserves a lot of attention for its hoppy offerings. However, Santé is something different, and unique enough to distinguish this brewery. This is a flavorful saison with barrel-aging that complements the core beer. The saison stays in the forefront, while the oak and chardonnay are accents in the background and finish. As it warms, those soft, sweet contributions from the barrel emerge and eventually linger with just a touch of alcoholic warmth. Santé combines my love of summertime saisons with a wine and oak sweetness, making it well-suited for fall.
