Robin Shepard
What is it? Solstice Saison from Alt Brew of Madison.
Style: Saisons are golden- to light amber beers. They are associated with earthy, yeasty aroma and light spicy dryness. Those yeasty qualities distinguish the saison from many other light effervescent beers. The style ranges from 4.4 to 6.8 percent ABV.
Background: Alt Brew has offered Solstice Saison periodically since 2015 This year, it’s a part of the regular spring seasonal lineup. Solstice Saison is made with a combination of sorghum, rice and honey, rather than gluten-containing malts. It’s hopped lightly with Herschberg, Hallertau and Sterling, all of which lend herbal notes that complement the spiciness of the saison yeast.
Brewmaster and owner Trevor Easton says this is a beer that is really all about the yeast. “The flavor profile is straightforward by allowing the yeast to do the work,” he says. Yeast is very important in making any beer, however with a saison the brewers select a strain that can give the beer crisp bubbly earthiness, subtle spicy dryness and even a hint of black pepper. Alt Brew’s gluten-free take on the style is on the lighter side of saison body and color, but in flavor it features qualities that one looks for in a traditional saison.
Easton compensates for not using malt with a combination of sorghum and rice, watching his brewing temperatures very closely, and allowing the beer to ferment longer and at colder conditions than with most ales. The addition of Gentle Breeze Honey from Mount Horeb bumps up the ABV while keeping the body light. Solstice Saison finishes around 5.1 percent ABV. It sells for $6/pint in the Alt Brew taproom and $10/bomber. The best place to find it is at the brewery.
Alt Brew is finding there is more than just a niche market for its gluten-free beers. The brewery is undergoing a two-phase expansion plan. This spring, Easton is adding a couple two-barrel fermenters to keep up with demand, especially for bottled products. Alt Brew currently brews using a one-barrel brew kettle. However, Easton intends to add a 20-barrel system by the end of the year.
Easton was recently selected with nine other business owners to participate in the accelerator capper program of the Wisconsin Food and Beverage (Fab) Industry Cluster Organization. Participants in the program get personalized coaching, professional development opportunities, and assistance in finding financing. Previous breweries that have taken part in the program have included MobCraft Beer and City Lights Brewing, both of Milwaukee.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Light floral notes and earthy yeastiness. Just a hint of spicy pepper aroma.
- Appearance: Light yellow-golden, almost straw colored. A medium bubbly white head.
- Texture: Light-bodied, bubbly.
- Taste: A floral musty sweetness is up front. There’s a light fruity sourness in the background.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Dry, with a touch of spiciness that includes hints of black pepper from the yeast.
Glassware: In the Alt Brew taproom this beer is served in the standard bar pint glass. I prefer the tulip glass, which shows off the beer’s light yellow-golden color, while the flared lip supports its bubbly white head and allows the yeasty esters to emerge under the nose.
Pairs well with: grilled salmon and trout. A well-made saison is a versatile meal beer because of its effervescence — carbonation that cleanses and sensitizes the palate. The style’s dryness, alongside the spicy and earthy notes of the yeast, goes exceptionally well with grilled seafood and meats. Light musty cheese can be a spectacular pairing, just don’t try to compete with saison yeast with too much earthiness.
The Verdict: Solstice Saison has the firm dry pepper spiciness that I enjoy in the style. It’s the first thing I look for and am delighted when it’s there. This beer also has a light fruitiness with just a hint of lemon in the background. That brightens up the overall flavor avoids the grainy qualities of sorghum sometimes found in gluten-free beers. Enjoy this beer very cold (at refrigerator temps) and fruity esters of the yeastiness will emerge even more. For Alt Brew fans who like the brewery’s Farmhouse Ale, this is very similar, just a bit lighter in body and color with less sweetness, but more spicy dryness.
