Paulius Musteikis
Fortify yourself against the howling winds. (Hint: It’s not tea.)
The hot toddy is a simple drink — liquor, sugar and hot water, sometimes served with a lemon. It hails from a time (the 1700s) when rooms were drafty, and it was wise, if not necessary, to imbibe warm liquids in order to fortify oneself against the howling winds. That, and water was suspect — heating it and adding liquor seemed the healthiest option.
There’s nothing picky about toddys; they were made with Scotch or brandy or gin or whatever moonshine was handy. In Colonial America, they were originally made with rum or applejack. The sweetener would have been honey, maple syrup or, if you were flush, imported sugar. There are newfangled toddys with everything from ginger liqueur, mandarin oranges and green tea to smoky numbers with mezcal.
At Umami Ramen & Dumpling Bar, 923 Williamson St., a welcome fall special is the Hot Sake Toddy. Employing Ozeki Junmai sake — which lends itself to being served warm anyway — this house toddy blends local honey with cloves and cinnamon. Served in a well-shaped tea mug, it’s pure comfort in liquid form. The sake makes for a clean-tasting and well-balanced drink that’s an ideal accompaniment to a steaming noodle bowl.
This is the second year this popular variation has appeared on the menu, and it’s a worthy way to rid yourself of November chills.
