Justin Sprecher
Refreshing, boozy and fun, the margarita is synonymous with summertime. Heck, just drinking one feels like being on vacation. And it appeals to many, from soccer moms to cocktail snobs. God bless the margarita, one of humanity’s greatest achievements.
Invented in Mexico in the 1930s or ‘40s, it really is a classic cocktail, right up there with the martini and the old fashioned. The recipe is easy enough — tequila, orange liqueur and lime juice. But with that simplicity comes plenty of room for improvisation when it comes to ingredient choices. People like to quibble about frozen versus on the rocks, and whether to use Grand Marnier or triple sec, but the most important question is this: Which tequila makes the best margarita?
While it might be tempting to go for the cheap stuff and let the citrus flavors do the heavy lifting, you might end up regretting it later. Logan Bunton, a bartender at Eldorado Grill, cautions against using lower-end brands like Jose Cuervo gold and silver, because they are mixtos, meaning they contain at least 51 percent agave and the rest is a neutral grain spirit. “That’s a recipe for a hangover,” Bunton says.
He recommends going a step up to a brand like Fortaleza, which is 100 percent agave. Fortaleza Reposado (which means “rested,” or aged) has a great depth of flavor without being too intense or intimidating — it’s smooth and herbaceous with a delicate spicy finish, great for both mixing and sipping. A 750 mL bottle retails for about $60. Casa Nobles is another quality brand, Bunton says, and Eldorado’s house margarita is made with Sauza Blue.
Matt Wirnsberger, a bartender at Lucille, recommends Milagro Reposado, another 100 percent agave spirit with a smoky, caramel flavor that comes from spending up to six months resting in oak barrels. At about $30 per bottle it’s a budget-friendly choice, and it’s the star of the Valkyrie, one of the original signature drinks at Merchant (Lucille’s sister restaurant). “It’s not too high-end, but it’s still a great product,” he says.
Lucas Balamuth, a bartender at Heritage, cautions against using ultra-expensive tequila in a margarita. He also favors Milagro, along with Corralejo Blanco, another 100 percent agave tequila that retails for about $30. “I wouldn’t recommend anejo,” he says, referring to tequilas that have been aged a minimum of one year in oak barrels. “Those are more for sipping.”
Bartenders from these restaurants will be making margaritas at Margarita Fest, June 10, 3-7 p.m. at Pasqual’s Cantina, 1344 E. Washington Ave. The event is organized by Isthmus and Pasqual’s Cantina.
