Bob Hemauer
It would take genuine effort to find a dish these wines would not complement.
As the snow banks in Madison turn gray, there’s something appealing about the thought of escaping to a picturesque Alpine village. But (expense aside), 2022 means that flight delays and the variant du jour conspire to make a trip to Saint Moritz more impractical than ever. Sampling wines from the Alps might not be the next best thing to a visit, but it is a start.
This European mountain range touches eight countries and is home to dozens of wine-growing regions that dot its slopes. Despite the diversity of these appellations, there are a few things that these wines have in common. The cool climate means that grapes, both red and white, maintain a vibrant acidity that keeps the wines refreshing and generally low in alcohol. This makes them incredibly versatile as pairs with a wide range of food — fondue, naturally, but it would take genuine effort to find a dish that these wines could not complement.
Wines from this region have remained insulated from international grape varieties and winemaking trends. Jacquère, mondeuse and schiava are not famous grapes, but they’re worth getting to know. Their obscurity means the market doesn’t command a high price for them, to the consumer’s benefit.
So whether you find yourself feeling après-ski or après-sledding at Elver Park, here are four excellent ways to start exploring the wines of the Alps.
The Alois Lageder 2019 Dolomiti Pinot Bianco Terra Alpina ($14) is an entry-level Pinot bianco from a prolific producer in the Italian Alps, sourced from a variety of vineyards throughout the Dolomites. This bottle is a perfect weeknight wine — not particularly complex, but it is thoughtfully made and thirst-quenching, with notes of green pepper and lemon peel.
Charles Gonnet 2020 Vin de Savoie Chignin ($18) comes from the village of Chignin in the French Alps and is made from 100 percent jacquère. This variety is a staple of the area, and this bottle is everything a white wine should be — zippy, with lemon and apple on the palate and a light floral nose. It would be great with a hunk of Pleasant Ridge Reserve, but it was equally spectacular with smoked chicken salad from Meat People on Monona Drive.
Elena Walch 2020 Alto Adige Schiava ($16) is a perennial favorite from Italy’s Alto Adige, and the 2020 vintage of this red wine is especially light-bodied and charming, with a juicy cherry cola note and a faint wisp of schiava’s characteristic toasty streak that lend complexity to the finish.
The Peillot 2020 Bugey Mondeuse ($23) hails from the low-altitude by Alpine standards, but still cool-climate region of Bugey in eastern France, and this bottle is absolutely worth seeking out. Its savory nose gives way to a mouthful of tart cranberries, grippy tannins and a lingering juicy black pepper finish. It was stunning enough with a pork chop to silence our dinner table for a few moments.
All wines are available for purchase or order at area wine shops. Bob Hemauer consults with the Tornado Steak House on its wine selections.
This story appears in the Feb. 3, 2022, issue of Isthmus under the headline: Escape route: The Alps can be your fantasy wine destination
