Linda Falkenstein
Greens, duck confit hash and scrambled eggs on a white plate.
Duck confit hash from Marigold Kitchen.
This past year was a year of comfort food for me. I wasn’t looking for taste adventures; I needed a hug. I wouldn’t tell just anyone this, but I will tell you, dear Isthmus reader: This meant that I was in the drive-through at McDonald’s ordering the filet ’o fish more often than might be ideal. Since I was old enough to chew, the filet ’o fish has been my security blanket meal, and I guess it’s a sign of my consistency (or McDonald’s) that it still is. I feel better about admitting this since I read this morning in Nigel Slater’s A Cook’s Book about his attachment to and frankly sensual relationship with the Big Mac. Still, one cannot live by the filet ’o fish alone. Some of my comfort food favorites this year, in no particular order:
Bluegill Po’Boy from Vintage Brewing Company
Truthfully, almost any fish sandwich is comfort food in my book and this was a standout, with a crunchy crust and flavorful filet inside a bun that did not overwhelm the star of the show. The po’boy treatment, which can be heavy, worked here, with a snappy remoulade (“Cajun mayo”).
Miso soup, shrimp tempura roll, and Thai iced tea from Tavernakaya
This isn’t an item but a whole lunch — the simple warming pleasure of a bowl of miso soup, a little crunch from the shrimp tempura, a hit of sweet from the Thai iced tea. Nothing complicated; purely pleasing.
Jiayi chicken from Taiwan Little Eats
I have written before about this simple bowl of rich stewed chicken over white rice, set off with pickled daikon and crispy shallots. As a comfort food, it keeps on giving. If only the kitchen would bring back the coffin toast.
Duck confit hash from Marigold Kitchen
This longtime standard at the downtown breakfast/lunch spot has fallen off the regular menu of late. But it loops back in every so often and I hit it lucky on April 19 when there it was. The lightly dressed side salad balances the richness of the hash. I go for soft scrambled eggs with this, mild and a little curdy.
Spicy tuna bowl from FreshFin
No-fuss counter ordering at this mini-chain out of Milwaukee is a comfort itself when you’re in a rush. I’m one of those people who goofs up a build-your-own poke bowl so I always opt for something on the signature menu. At FreshFin I rely on the spicy tuna bowl. There’s plenty of tuna and crunchy tobiko, not too much jalapeno or edamame. I like it on mixed greens and quinoa; the sweet shoyu and spicy aioli pull the whole concoction together.
