Waterbrook Winery
The "Clean" label from Waterbrook Winery in Walla Walla, Washington, is dealcoholized.
For many, a new year means a renewed focus on health — dieting, hitting the gym a little more, and examining relationships with alcohol. Whether participating in Dry January or simply doing a post-holiday reset, people are making the resolution to look for alcohol-free or low alcohol alternatives to their favorite alcoholic drink. Wineries have taken note, and there are increasingly more “wines” for the wine drinker who wants to maintain sobriety while having a drink that feels more grown-up than a kiddie cocktail. But are these products really wine? And more importantly, are they good?
There is not a straightforward answer to either of those questions. After all, alcohol is a critical component of what makes wine wine. Pharmacological effects aside, alcohol adds a slight bitterness and contributes heavily to the mouthfeel of wine. It also heightens the perception of sweetness, and binds to certain compounds that enhance the wine’s aroma. All of these things are central to a wine’s identity
To learn more, I tried four low-alcohol (less than .5 percent ABV) offerings available in stores around Madison.
The one thing they all had in common, besides offering very little on the nose, was that they suffered when compared to traditional wine. Certainly, the wineries below invite this comparison by marketing these low-alcohol alternatives to look like their traditional counterparts, right down to the varietal labeling. But in tasting these low-alcohol offerings, one thing became immediately apparent: They are not wine. If there is enjoyment to be had from them, it can only come when judging them independently from their higher-octane siblings. Each bottle below attempts to compensate for these absences with varying degrees of success.
Johannes Leitz is a producer in the Rheingau region in Germany best known for his outstanding rieslings, but who has also developed a line of alcohol-free wines. Leitz removes the alcohol from traditionally fermented wines, and this process allows for the low-alcohol product to retain some of the complexity of traditional wine. Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Sparkling Riesling ($20) presents a more sophisticated answer to the question of what to offer abstaining guests when making a Champagne toast — it is certainly several steps above Welch’s Sparkling Grape Juice. With its zippy acidity and pleasant lemon fruit, it was a fun, if not particularly complex, glass of bubbles. Leitz Eins Zwei Zero Pinot Noir ($20) was juicy and easy-drinking, with notes of cherries and cranberries and would be a nice accompaniment to a piece of grilled salmon.
Washington State wine producer Waterbrook also offers a line of dealcoholized wines, under the Clean label, including a chardonnay and a cabernet sauvignon. Waterbrook Clean Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) succeeded in having a noticeably dusty tannic grip, but without any of the fruit or acidity that would normally provide balance. The winery advertises it as having “notes of black plum and dark cherry” but these were conspicuously absent, leaving little on the palate but a tinny, hollow note of black tea. Waterbrook Clean Chardonnay ($14) was much more enjoyable, with a burst of mouthwatering tart citrus and a plethora of round tropical fruit. In a different context, one might be tempted to mix it with gin and serve it with a sprig of rosemary — but that would defeat the point, wouldn’t it?
