Ryan Wisniewski
Toby's Supper Club
Fish fry. It is perhaps the most sacrosanct cultural event in Wisconsin, with the possible exception of Packers games. Every Friday, restaurants across the state pull out that special menu: fish fry. The search for the perfect fish fry is a constant, but fish fries are far from homogenous. There are differences in breading and batter, accompanying sides, and of course the base fish itself. Cod, perch, blue gill and walleye are the most common options; catfish is an occasional star, and up north, whitefish starts to take over.
1. Dexter’s Pub’s fish is wild-caught and sustainably harvested. Cod, blue gill and walleye are all on the menu, along with shrimp and grilled salmon. A po’ boy option comes with catfish or shrimp. Sides are classic: coleslaw, sourdough rye, and a choice of various fries or a baked potato. They start packing Dexter’s early — you can encounter a wait at 5 p.m. 301 North St.
2. Toby’s Supper Club is a classic tavern/supper club hybrid. Fish fry is super-popular, so bre prepared to wait at the bar, where the old fashioneds will be dispensed in short order. Fish is a choice from baby pike, catfish, cod or lake perch. Insiders hold that the side of hash browns with cheese is a must. 3717 S. Dutch Mill Rd.
2. (tie) The Villa Tap is a good old-fashioned Wisconsin tavern, no pretentions about it. The fish fry is a crowded, chummy scene — everyone seems to know the drill. Find a table — or find the wait list at the back of the bar and write your name down. Order from cod, walleye or Canadian lake perch, which all come with slaw, fries and a dinner roll. 2302 Packers Ave.
3. Quivey’s Grove proves that a little country charm never hurt a fish fry. Served in the 1855 Stone House and the rustic Stable Grill on Fridays, fish fry at Quivey’s means beer-battered cod or pretzel-crusted lake perch. Cod also comes baked, or you can order a combo of all of the above. Slaw, sourdough bread and a choice of parmesan potatoes or french fries round out the ritual. 6261 Nesbitt Rd.
4. The Avenue Club serves its fish fry every night of the week. The batter on the cod or walleye is mad with Wisconsin Brewing Company’s Badger Club amber, fried shatteringly crisp. The choice of potato includes house chips, fries, baked or the somewhat unconventional option of mashed potatoes, slaw, rye bread and of course house-made tartar sauce. 1128 E. Washington Ave.
5. The Oakcrest Tavern starts serving its fish fry Fridays at 5 p.m., but if you want an early dinner, get there at 4:30 and place your order, advises the hostess. “By six o’clock, we’re pretty packed.” The Oakcrest serves fried cod or perch, with cole slaw and a choice of french fries or potato salad. Or — a novelty — upgrade to a side salad. 5371 Old Middleton Rd.
