Krystal Pence, Linda Falkenstein, Kyle Nabilcy
A montage of three photis including the bar at Lola's, the exterior of Sweetgreen and a bowl of chicken and vegetables and bread from Lallande.
Clockwise from top left: Lola's Hi/lo Lounge, Sweetgreen, Lallande.
It would be nice to be able to start a yearly dining overview without referring to the pandemic. 2020 was the year of takeout. 2021 was an on-again, off-again mask-erade. 2022 was the year of the staff shortage.
Looking back at 2023, it feels scary to suggest we’re out of the woods. The staffing shortage is not over, but slowly more restaurants are expanding their hours. No one is asking people opening new eateries why on earth they would want to do that. Moreover, openings feel joyous rather than precarious. And some spots are packed in ways that defy even pre-pandemic norms.
Is there a seat at the bar? Maybe?
Lallande, the French-inspired bistro from Bloom Bakeshop’s Annemarie Maitri and Mark Pavlovich, opened in August. Maitri seems to have fulfilled her initial desire to have the bistro be a cozy neighborhood gathering place and the allure seems to have spilled over to the city at large. Tables are highly sought-after — your best bet for a spur-of-the-moment reservation is before 6 p.m. or after 8:30 p.m.
You’ll need good luck getting in the door at Lola’s Hi/Lo Lounge, an ode to jazz on vinyl as well as cocktails and great bar food from Matt Gerding, Tori Gerding and Evan Dannells that opened in November. Try a Monday?
The highly anticipated Fabiola’s Spaghetti House & Deli, in the old Rocky Rococo on Regent Street, opened its Italian/Jewish deli counter in November. Its sit-down old school Italian-American dining room followed suit shortly before Christmas.
These ventures demonstrate there is an audience for well-done, entertaining dining and drinking options in neighborhoods not right downtown. A fourth Buck and Honey’s even opened — in Mount Horeb!
Global reach
Touch of Ukraine opened in Union Corners with a menu of that country’s typical dishes, with plenty of excellent dumplings and super friendly service. Dagu Rice Noodle, a chain from China that specializes in the Yunnan specialty Crossing the Bridge noodle soup, took over in the old Yummy Noodle spot on University Avenue. Eat Xpress, a Chinese spot with some cafeteria-style options as well as a limited menu, opened on East Gorham Street.
Far Breton Bakery, which focuses on Breton pastries — especially the hard-to-find kouign-amann, sometimes called the world’s richest pastry — opened in the long empty New Orleans Takeout building on Fordem Avenue. Reverie Baking Co. opened in Schenk’s Corners.
Peruvian Pikkito, specializing in rotisserie chicken, opened in Middleton in the gas station space formerly occupied by the short-lived Brazilian spot Tacuma.
Sultan moved into the old Roman Candle on Williamson and features a seasonal menu of Punjabi-influenced dishes served small-plates-style. Silk Road, whose chef is from Tajikistan, opened on South Park Street.
It was nice to see the empty Angelo’s on Monona drive finally occupied with another Italian place: Fratelli’s Trattoria opened in May. It’s Good for You pizza brought Neapolitan-style pizza to the Maple Bluff area in a charmingly revamped beauty salon.
Yako Sushi House is the latest occupant at 515 Cottage Grove Road, and Sake Sushi opened in the former Ginza on Odana Road.
The American experience
Linda Falkenstein
Interior of a counter-order restaurant, with white pendant ceiling lamps and plants.
Todofresco opened in the former Cranberry Creek takeout area in the Tenney Building.
Bowl places sprang up like mushrooms on a dark forest floor. State Street got Madison’s first Sweetgreen, a national chain. Todofresco, featuring a similar concept but locally owned by the team that runs Lucille, opened on the first floor of the Tenney Building. Comfort Fuel, also serving bowls along with breakfast sandwiches and more acai options, opened near campus in the old Salads UP. At the helm is Doug Hamaker, once a co-owner of Forage Kitchen, one of Madison’s first bowl-a-ramas.
There were not a lot of straight up “American” menus this year — maybe bowls are the new American cuisine. Draper Bros. Chophouse opened in the old sandstone triangle building that has been home to a succession of ventures since it was the Blue Marlin.
One & Only took over the Brasserie V storefront with a menu of “American classics,” even though the dishes skew Italian with risotto, polenta and pappardelle. St. Charles Station, carved out of half of the former Liliana’s in Fitchburg, opened mid-summer; it’s one of the few places locally that still specializes in New Orleans-style dishes. Boulder Brewpub in Verona closed, replaced with Stone Porch Ale House. Willy Street Eats, open in the original Lao Laan Xang, encompasses a variety of dishes from Jamaican to soul.
And The High Crowd Cafe opened at 115 State St. in the old Buck & Badger, which closed in 2020. The cafe serves CBD-infused teas, lattes and lemonades. What could be more American than that?
El año de la comida Mexicana
The last Roman Candle standing, in Middleton, closed and was replaced by the new Fajitas Tapas and Bar. Jalisco Cocina Mexicana opened on King Street in the old Restaurant Muramoto, which closed in 2020. Casa Fiesta Mexican Grill took over the long empty KJ’s Curry Bowl on Tree Lane near West Towne, Vaquero Mexican Grill the site of a former Einstein’s Bagels on East Washington Avenue, and Sabores Fusion Grill the upper level at 449 State St. Tacos & Tequila moved into the defunct Hotel Red’s dining space at Monroe and Regent. On the other hand, one of Madison’s oldest Mexican restaurants, Pedro’s, closed in spring citing staffing problems — though the closure is still marked as “temporary.”
In and out
Linda Falkenstein
Green salad, chicken on rice and fries.
The chicken kebab plate with rice, salad and fries from The Mediterranean Joint.
Turkish Kitchen relocated from Gammon Road to the long-vacant Tin Fox on Monroe Street; The Mediterranean Joint opened in Gateway Mall after Poke Poke moved in with sister restaurant Feast Artisan Dumplings.
Speaking of doubling up, Tutto Pasta State Street moved in with SASS, on the Square. Conversely, Umami finally stopped serving out of Tavernakaya and reopened in its pre-pandemic headquarters on Willy Street.
Ahan moved to larger quarters in what had been Eldorado Grill, which closed in 2022. A second Dhaba Indian Bistro opened, this one known as Dhaba Kitchen, taking over from Haveli, in Fitchburg. A second Caspian Grill opened in the defunct HuHot on Junction Road. Madison Cuisine, in the University Square development on campus, closed; a new sign mounted there says SENJOY. STHANKS, we hope we will.
This year we also said goodbye to Lane’s Bakery, Burrito Drive, Everyday Kitchen, Vin Santo, Little Palace and Graft.
In denial?
In last year’s wrapup I failed to report that beloved Madison mainstay Paisan’s had closed, because in my mind it had not really closed. It vacated its dining room in the disintegrating office building at 131 W. Wilson St. Possibly I was in denial, but I saw the situation as temporary, as its owners were reportedly looking for a new location. Fast forward to now, and Paisan’s has still not reopened. Current plans are to try to recreate it in the lower level of its sister restaurant, Porta Bella. And hey, if that doesn’t work, have you considered the empty Estrellón on West Johnson Street? You’re welcome.
