Bob Hemauer
A burger from Sardine with a steakknife sticking up out of the bun, plated with french fries and with a glass of wine in the background.
The house burger from Sardine, rare.
2023 was a year in which I purposely took deep, intentional delight in casual and informal food experiences — partly because of a hectic schedule, partly because I’m growing weary of long tasting menus. Luckily, Madison has an embarrassment of riches in the more casual, everyday category. Here are some of the dishes that helped bring me repeated joy throughout 2023.
House burger from Sardine
I claim to not eat a lot of hamburgers, but the frequency that I find myself in the bar at Sardine eating the house burger tells another story. I always order it correctly — rare, with gruyere cheese — and usually pair it with a glass of Loire Cabernet Franc. Perfectly seasoned and greasy in the best way, it is an archetype of casual indulgence: rich, familiar, accessible and served in one of my all-time favorite restaurant spaces in Madison.
Lamb skewers from Hutong
This might be the best lamb dish in Madison. Small chunks of improbably consistently perfect lamb shoulder with a delicate cumin crust that yields to a juicy and perfectly cooked bite. They are especially satisfying when consumed on Hutong’s little back patio with a cold Tsingtao. (Note, Hutong is closed until Dec. 28.)
Chocolate chip cookie from Casetta Kitchen and Counter
Its crisp crust and gooey middle sits beneath a crown of flaky sea salt and never fails to cheer me up when I’m having a bad day. It is simple, but demonstrates how a familiar dish perfectly executed can bring unbridled delight.
M’hamra from Taza
I like a lot of things on the menu at Taza in Middleton, but no matter what comes after, my meals there start with their m’hamra. This rich spread of roasted red pepper, garlic, walnuts and olive oil has heat and a little sweetness. The vodka on the rocks I like to order with it might not be the classic beverage pairing, but I don’t care, they taste good together.
Praram long song from Ahan is excellent when ordered for take out, but is transcendent when you eat in. Luckily, Ahan’s new Williamson Street location in the former Eldorado Grill offers more space to dine in than their previous spot on Winnebago. The chicken is fried perfectly, with a formidable crust that stands up to the intense and bright peanut sauce. The vegetables, often an afterthought in this dish, are consistently perfectly cooked. Ahan’s small wine list offers a sparkling wine that cleanses the palate and encourages you to finish more of the dish than maybe you had planned.
