If you’re a local, it is easy to take the Saturday Dane County Farmers’ Market for granted. But if you think about it, the scope of the weekly market that rings the Capitol Square from April to November is breathtaking, especially as the harvest starts to roll in. Whether you’re entertaining out-of-town guests or just killing time on a Saturday morning, September is arguably the best month to visit the market, with its kaleidoscope of vegetables — tomatoes, squash, potatoes, eggplant — alongside season-long standbys. Here are four Dane County Farmers’ Market favorites and the wines that help them shine.
It could be considered an act of journalistic malpractice to talk about farmers’ market favorites with no mention of Hot & Spicy Cheese Bread from Stella’s Bakery. The over-the-top buttery almost-too-sweet bread, studded with cheese and sprinkled with pepper flakes, is an icon of the Saturday market. A well-balanced, mineral-driven German riesling is just the thing to cut through its richness, and the Selbach 2019 Saar Spätlese Riesling ($21) is a great bottle to grab if your loaf manages to survive the impulse to snack while circling the Square. The balanced sweetness of this bottle plays off the sweetness of the bread and complements the spicy topping, while the lip-smacking acidity in the finish helps to refresh the palate after the onslaught of rich butter and cheese.
If there’s anything that rivals cheese bread in popularity for a snack at the farmers’ market, it is cheese curds, and those from Hook’s Cheese are a favorite. Founder and winemaker Erin Rasmussen of the relatively new American Wine Project, based in Mineral Point, makes ambitious wines from upper Midwestern grapes that are shockingly elegant and food-friendly. The tart citrus and subtle herbal notes in American Wine Project 2020 Wisconsin Social Creature Rosé ($21) will provide the bright, acidic lift needed after deciding that finishing the bag of curds was a good idea.
Kingfisher Farm has expanded its offerings to include an excellent chili crisp and a line of hot sauces, and its lamb is truly exceptional. It is tender and sweet with just the right amount of grassiness. The ground lamb combined with ginger, garlic, cumin and chili pepper makes an excellent meatball, and the Donkey & Goat 2020 California Gallivanter ($27) red blend is the perfect companion. This bottle from the prolific California natural wine producer is composed of merlot, grenache and mourvèdre, and has a great balance of dark, peppery fruit and bright elegance that complements the subtle gamey flavor of the lamb.
Morren Orchard & Nursery is rightfully famous for its outstanding apples, pears and plums, but its tomatoes this season embody what makes a late summer market special. This season’s sungold and bronze torch tomatoes have been consistently savory and intensely delicious. Drizzle them in a little olive oil, sprinkle some flaky salt on top, open a bottle of Mortellito 2021 Terre Siciliane Cala Nìuru ($27) and bask in September’s glory. This bottle from near Noto in southeastern Sicily is a blend of Frappato and Nero d’Avola grapes, and has tart dark cherry notes and a bright juicy finish that is perfect for warm late summer evenings.
Editor's note: Bob Hemauer consults with the Tornado Steak House on its wine selections.
