Nicole Franzen
The open kitchen at The Harvey House.
The Harvey House — a reimagined supper club with a menu influenced by classic French cooking techniques — is two weeks from opening at the old depot on West Washington Avenue.
It’s been a long process, says Shaina Robbins Papach, who with her husband, Joe, owns the restaurant.
The couple snagged the space in Milwaukee Road Depot three years ago, not anticipating how long it would be before they could open their doors. But, adds Papach, “We're just as excited as we were then. Joe and I dreamed about this project, and it really feels like a dream come true.”
The couple have worked at top-flight restaurants. Joe was a sous-chef at Thomas Keller’s The French Laundry in Yountville, California, for six years; Shaina has worked for Alice Waters. The couple met while at the Gramercy Tavern in New York City. At their new venture, Shaina will run the business including communications and design and Joe the kitchen.
The Papachs chose Madison for the next phase of their life — raising kids and opening their own restaurant — in part to be closer to family. Shaina grew up in Madison and Joe is from Indiana. They were also attracted by the strong support Madison residents show for the local food scene.
On their return to Wisconsin, the couple found themselves drawn to the vibe of the classic supper club. These restaurants' "generosity of spirit” reminded them of why they got into food in the first place, Papach says.
Supper clubs feel warm and comforting, allowing you to step away and forget about everyday life. They make you want to have that extra drink or order that extra appetizer, Papach says.
The original plan for the restaurant had more California influences (and a shorter timeline to completion), but after eating around Wisconsin, the couple changed their plans.
“The things that we were wanting to eat changed a little bit when we came back here,” Papach says.
The menu will feature classic appetizers prepared in unique ways, and proteins — including a ribeye for two — paired with seasonal vegetables. Dishes will be based on classic French techniques, Papach says. There will be some surprises, too, like a walleye dish with fish mousse baked in brioche, served with herb spaetzle, cabbage and beurre blanc.
Papach hopes that The Harvey House will be a place for all occasions, with different dining spaces throughout the restaurant. The restaurant has two bars and three dining rooms. The first-floor dining room, between a bar and an exposed kitchen lined with shelves and plates, has an at-home feel. The upstairs dining space will allow for a more “intimate” experience.
“We hope that people will come and have a drink and a snack at the bar a couple times a week or celebrate their most special occasions here as well,” says Papach.
The Harvey House was created out of the former baggage handling area in the depot. Farm landscapes are painted behind both bars. Booth seating contributes to the supper club atmosphere, but wood tables and cane chairs lend a more refined feel. Windows on one side offer a view of a yellow train car.
The train car will eventually serve as a private dining and events space. Right now the restaurant has around a 120-person capacity, and will open for diners July 20. The restaurant accepts reservations.
While renovations took longer than expected, and COVID-19 delayed the restaurant’s opening further, Papach sees a silver lining.
“The amount that I've learned in this project, I can't even really figure it out yet,” she says. “I have loved this process. I would do it again.”
