Paulius Musteikis
Massive flavor: walleye at the Tip Top Tavern.
The Madison area always has plenty of newcomers to the fish fry scene, and a few of them are already leaving their mark. Places like Dexter's Pub and Stalzy's Deli have put their stamp on Friday over the last few years, but an even more recent crop of eateries are doing wonderful things with their fish.
The Flying Hound Alehouse has been doing Friday right ever since it opened in 2014. Its claim to fame is cod, and it's best when preceded by a cup of the Hound's signature clam chowder. The chowder is rich and creamy and loaded with clams, while the three-piece wild-caught Alaskan cod is truly top-notch. The fish itself is flaky, with a light breading and a unique blend of seasonings that are hard to identify but easy to love. Bits of pepper and plenty of salt certainly play a part, but there's clearly more at work here than meets the eye. Furthermore, it's fried so well that no grease develops upon sitting. It's remarkable stuff and some of the tastiest cod the area currently has to offer. The fries, while house-cut, are fairly straightforward, as is the coleslaw, and although there is no bread served, even that omission can't hold this fish fry back. Walleye and lake perch are also available for those longing for freshwater fish.
Those who think classic supper clubs are but a remnant of the past clearly haven't had a chance to check out the new Watertower Chop House in Sun Prairie. While the fish fry prices are on the high side ($11-$19), diners are rewarded with large portions, quality food and a jaunt through an unrivaled salad bar. Mixed greens, spinach, cottage cheese, coleslaw and the usual toppings are joined by a few that aren't always found, like sprouts, warm bacon dressing and chopped hard-boiled eggs. Homemade clam chowder is available at the end of the line, and as a special bonus for parents and kids alike, decadent chocolate mousse also awaits.
The lake perch here rivals the best in the area. Three big butterflies are fat and meaty with no "off" fishy flavors or textures. It's enhanced by a crispy breading and bolstered by a supper club tartar sauce as thick and creamy as they come.
There are numerous side options at the Watertower Chop House, and the potato pancakes are the best of the bunch. These house-made patties are medium-thick, supple, and have plenty of pungent onion.
The Spring Creek Restaurant and Bar in Lodi has really made a name for itself recently. Spring Creek offers its impressive list of fish six days a week and does them all incredibly well, regardless of the day.
The cod is delicate, flaky and clearly high quality. It comes in a crisp panko-style breading that is lightly seasoned and light on grease. The same goes for the lake perch.
The best of the bunch might be the bluegill -- some of the best in the area -- with a light, crispy breading. Fries are battered and are included with all the fish.
The Tip Top Tavern is my choice for the best of the new fish fry in town. While the establishment is ultra-tiny, what they pump out of the kitchen is anything but. The walleye is a large, deep-fried, dark-brown breaded fillet with a massive amount of flavor. The kitchen clearly isn't shy with the pepper grinder, and the cracked corns lend a great contrast to the pristine walleye meat.
The Tip Top recently added a beer-battered cod that's nothing short of outstanding. The batter is rich and smoky with an absolutely superb flavor.
Both the walleye and the cod are aided and abetted by a homemade aioli-like tartar sauce that's decadent and creamy, with the perfect amount of oomph. Baked potato is also available, and the homemade vinegar"based coleslaw is delightfully light.
It should also be noted that the Tip Top is cash only, so plan accordingly if you want to get your mitts on this fish.
Mike Seidel reviews fish fries at MadisonFishFry.com.
