Marie Ketring
The American Cheese Society conference rewards cheeses that push the envelope.
Another contest, another chance for Wisconsin cheesemakers to kick butt and take ribbons.
Summer is an exciting time in the cheese world because of the annual American Cheese Society conference, which this year is July 27-30 in Des Moines. While Wisconsin hosts the world and U.S. contests every year, ACS moves around; it was last held in Madison in 2013.
This one is dubbed “The Oscars of Cheese” because the judging criteria are a little different from the others, although like the rest, it awards a “Best of Show.” The two Wisconsin-hosted contests are judged technically, by how each entry matches up to the standard of its style of cheese.
The ACS, on the other hand, also judges on aesthetics. It’s where creative cheeses that don’t fit a certain standard might fare better.
“The exposure really helps the smaller players,” says Patrick Schroeder, prepared foods manager at the Willy Street Co-op.
Schroeder cites Winnimere, a soft cheese made by Vermont’s Jasper Hill Farm, as a good example of the unique cheeses that fare well at ACS. The cheese took top honors when the contest was held in Madison.
“That’s a cheese I can tell people, ‘Before you die, you should try Winnimere,’” Schroeder says. “It’s a perfect example of the art of cheesemaking.”
The ACS contest awarded 99 ribbons to Wisconsin cheesemakers last year. Who will win this year? Who should win? Insiders have a few ideas of who might rise to the top among the 1,800 cheeses that will be heading to Des Moines.
Jeanne Carpenter, Metcalfe’s Market
Will win: Carpenter, who alse writes the Cheese Underground blog, likes North Fork from Redhead Creamery in Brooten, Minn. It’s a whiskey-washed, moldy, stinky French-style Munster. “Alise Sjostrom is an up-and-coming American rock star cheesemaker,” Carpenter says.
Should win: Wischago, Hidden Springs Creamery, Westby. Carpenter hopes cheesemaker Brenda Jensen’s spin on traditional Manchego gets its due. Jensen has cleaned up at ACS, winning more than 75 awards in 10 years. “She’s long overdue for ACS Best in Show,” Carpenter says.
Patrick Schroeder, Willy Street Co-op
Will win: Holland’s Family Cheese of Thorp has gained so much attention for Marieke Penterman’s Goudas that maybe the top prize will land in her hands, he says.
Should win: Schroeder would like to see the big award go to the Dunbarton Blue or Red Rock cheddar-blue from Shullsburg’s Roelli Cheese Co. “He’s working so hard to make his cheeses known,” Schroeder says of cheesemaker Chris Roelli.
Liz Dueland, Metro Market
Will win: Dueland, cheese specialist at Metro Market, thought Roth of Monroe had a shot at taking another top award with its Private Reserve Alpine-style cheese. Roth's Grand Cru won the World Championship Cheese Contest in March at Monona Terrace, but the Private Reserve was runner-up for top honors last year at ACS. In other words, Roth is on a roll.
Should win: Sartori Parmesan, from Plymouth, Wis. First, Dueland put imported Parmigiano Reggiano up against mass-market Parmesan cheese in a taste test with customers, and the imports won. Then she put the Sartori Parm up against the imports, and her customers loved the nutty, mellow Wisconsin-made cheese. It might be time for Sartori to win big, she says.
C.J. Bienert, the Cheese Shop of Des Moines
Will win: A view from outside the Dairy State seemed worth pursuing. Even so, Wisconsin looms large; Bienert thinks Uplands Cheese Co. of Dodgeville has a chance to win its fourth Best of Show with its Pleasant Ridge Reserve. “Some of the batches we’ve had this year have been amazing,” he says.
Should win: Bienert goes local, with the goat cheeses from Reichert’s Dairy Air of Knoxville, Iowa. Two of their products, Robiola di Mia Nonna and Robiolina di Reba, have taken top honors at U.S. goat cheese competitions. Bienert hopes the home-state favorite gains new fans.
