Robin Shepard
Delta Beer Lab is the latest brewery to open in Madison. Since its debut a week ago the taproom has been drawing crowds. The initial beer list features a range of ales: a porter, a golden, a red, a West Coast IPA and a New England IPA. “We wanted to start with a spectrum of beers,” says owner Tim (“Pio”) Piotrowski. “Some have a classic, old-world style, and others features a fresh twist that we know Madison will appreciate.” Among the early standouts is a brown ale with a smooth blend of coffee and malt character.
What is it? Coffee Brown Ale from Delta Beer Lab of Madison.
Style: Brown ales are often reddish brown to dark brown. They are smooth, medium-bodied beers. The style has been around for a long time and it’s often said that brown ale evolved from its darker cousin, the porter. American brown ales generally range from 5 to 6 percent ABV.
Background: Delta Beer Lab has the look and feel of a science classroom with the lab-like black resin on benchtops and tables,beer samples served in glass beakers and beer menus on video screens that look like chalk boards. Customer feedback forms look like lab reports that students might turn into a teacher.
Piotrowski designed the space to remind patrons that beer making involves science and experimentation, also hallmarks of how he approaches making beer. Despite the lab feel, there’s a communal atmosphere that encourages interactions over beer.
This coffee brown ale is a great introduction to Delta Beer Lab. Its shows how Piotrowski intends to push styles and experiment with ingredients. It’s an infused beer, with Kin-Kin Coffee (like the brewery, the roasters are located in the Novation Campus). The recipe was created by Barrett Lione-Seaton, the brewery’s Shepherd of Yeast (yes, that’s an actual job title). “I get easily disappointed with coffee beers because I’m a coffee snob,” says Lione-Seaton. “I love light roasted coffee because of the unique flavors you.” Lione-Seaton speaks from experience; before becoming a brewer he worked as a coffee roaster and at several cafes.
Lione-Seaton and Piotrowski taste-tested blends of the brown ale with six different coffees before selecting Columbian Narino beans. The coffee was roasted and ground and then added to the fermenter, where it remained with the beer for 48 hours.
The brown ale behind it is made with crystal and chocolate malts for color and bready sweetness. It also has additions of wheat and lactose for body. Nugget and Willamette hops help balance the malts.
This coffee-infused brown ale is identified on the Delta Lab menu as BRN.01. Delta uses such notations, which resemble periodic element abbreviations, for its introductory beers. To interpret them, know that the first three letters refer to the style, while the second digits after the decimal point are the times the beer was brewed. It’s a system that drinkers will need to get to know to fully understand what’s on tap at Delta.
Coffee Infused Brown (a.k.a. BRN.01) finishes at 5.2 percent ABV and 20 IBUs. It sells in the Delta Beer Lab taproom for $7.50/glass and $12/growler (refill). Delta also gives growler purchases a little extra attention by purging them with CO2 before filling to extend how long beer can stay in the container. That’s something few breweries take the time to do.
Delta plans to start canning beers and offering them to local liquor and beer stores by the end of March.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: Notes of roasted coffee.
- Appearance: Deep bronze color. A medium soft tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied with softness.
- Taste: A malty, bready body with light roasted coffee flavor.
- Finish/Aftertaste: Light notes of toffee and coffee.
Glassware: Browns are often served in standard American bar pints or an English nonic glass. Delta Beer Lab uses the English pint. When taking home a growler, call more attention to the coffee aroma by using a Willi Becher and its inward taper near the lip that focuses aroma under the nose.
Pairs well with: chocolate. The beer’s lightly roasted aroma and flavor go well with mild sweet milk chocolate.
The Verdict: Coffee beers tend to be very flavorful and can easily be out of balance. Delta Beer Lab’s coffee brown is more of a blend, allowing the coffee and beer to complement one another. I like it because it the coffee is held in check, yet provides a mild nuttiness that works very well with the caramel and chocolate malts.
