Robin Shepard
John Russell behind the bar at Lone Girl with glasses of three different kinds of Belgian beer.
John Russell at Lone Girl with his three Belgians.
Belgian beers can be an adventure in craft beer appreciation. They include a broad range of styles and some of the greatest diversity among beers from a specific region of the world. Fortunately, for local fans of the genre, October offers quite a few selections right here at home.
John Russell of The Lone Girl Brewing Company in Waunakee has three Belgians currently on tap, that should last from now through Thanksgiving at least. He says patrons who love Belgians tend to like the way the yeast shines through. The style’s yeasty qualities, sweetness, range of colors, and modest alcohol warmth make them nice beers for easing into fall.
Giant Jones Brewing, well-known for making a variety of Belgian styles, has two new ones for October in addition to its regular taproom lineup that currently includes a half dozen. There are also new releases at Madison’s Alt Brew and the Full Mile Beer Company and Kitchen in Sun Prairie.
Jessica Jones, Giant Jones Brewery co-owner and brewmaster, says there is strong interest in the Belgians because of their distinctive floral, fruity, musty and spicy qualities from the Belgian yeast strains that go into brewing them. “There are people who are over the moon about Belgian styles,” she says. “I love it when people come in and say, wow, this tastes just like the beer I drank in the Netherlands on vacation.”
Giant Jones is a certified organic brewery, which presents some challenges in finding ingredients for historic beer styles and Belgian brews. Yet that is part of the fun in making them, says Jones. “I find it even more rewarding to take the recipes and modify them with available organic Wisconsin-grown ingredients,” she says. “I get excited about digging up old beers that the world hasn’t seen in a while, and for some in Madison they may have never seen or heard of them, and then adding a local twist with ingredients.”
Giant Jones is hosting a Belgian Beer Fest on Oct. 21 from 2-9 p.m. About a dozen Belgian beers will be featured, with at least eight from Giant Jones including its newest Quadrupel and the Dubbel Diest. There will also be Belgians from other Madison breweries; the lineup has not yet been finalized.
Local Belgians
Dubbel Diest is Jones’ re-creation of an historical Belgian beer style from the 17th century that nearly went extinct around 1900. It is a brown ale finishing at 7% ABV and is made with raw spelt and oats that Jones secures from Meadowlark Organics of Ridgeway, Wisconsin. Making it requires a very long brewing time with six hours boiling the wort, 4-5 times longer than most beers. The long boil helps bring out nutty and bready qualities of grains. This beer will likely not be ready until the Oct. 21 fest. ($7/bottle)
Quadrupel is a new beer for the brewery. It is made with Munich malt and unrefined sugar which combine for a dark amber color, sweetness and alcohol warmth at 10.8% ABV. The Belgian yeast gives it hints of dark fruit, including plum and raisin, along with a spicy dryness. This is an inviting, smooth, easy drinking, deceptively strong quad. ($7/bottle)
Tripel sets a benchmark among locally made takes on the style. It is not a new beer for the brewery, but it is a fresh batch just released. This is a bright golden, effervescent, strong ale with notes of pear, apple and orange. It finishes dry with a suggestion of spicy pepper. This signature beer for Giant Jones finishes at 9.5% ABV. ($7/bottle)
Robin Shepard
Erika Jones behind the bar at Giant Jones with a glass of a Belgian and two bottles.
Erika Jones at Giant Jones
Bière De Miel is a strong Belgian ale with a 9.7% ABV made with organic honey from Pure Sweet Honey of Verona. The beer was originally created in collaboration with Bos Meadery. Its flavor has a hint of lemon, orange and spicy peppercorn. There is subtle alcoholic warmth in the finish which may sneak up on you, so don’t underestimate its effect. Because of the challenge in finding organic honey, its future is uncertain. Best to get it while it is available. This beer is a quiet favorite among taproom regulars. ($7/bottle)
Towhead, a light golden Belgian blonde with a slight haze, finishes at 7% ABV. It starts with the soft sweetness of the pilsner malt and yeast and finishes dry and crisp. This beer has been among the brewpub’s most popular Belgian offerings and has been around since it opened in 2016. ($7/glass and $10/four-packs)
Double Trubbel, a pumpkin-spiced Belgian dubbel that finishes at 7.5% ABV just started its fall run at the brewpub. It is brewed with 100 pounds of pumpkin in a 10-barrel batch of beer. To that, brewer John Russell adds a blend of allspice, cinnamon, cloves, ginger and ground mace. This beer’s yeasty floral notes combine with the sweetness of the squash. ($7/glass)
Surprise Threesome, a Belgian tripel at 9.5% ABV, which really is a surprise find for tripel fans. It offers soft, fruity, floral sweetness that comes from a strain of yeast used by the Westmalle Brewery of Belgium. Pilsner malt and a touch of wheat contribute to its brilliant yellow golden color, fluffy white head of foam, and medium body. Strong, smooth and very inviting. ($8/glass, $24/growler)
Devil’s Nectar, a gluten-free Belgian golden strong with a 11.5% ABV is made with Gentle Breeze Honey from Mount Horeb. The honey lends strength while keeping the body on the light side and allowing the fruity Belgian yeast character to come through. ($8/22-ounce bomber bottle)
Full Mile Beer Company and Kitchen
Palace of Gold, a Belgian golden strong with a 10.4% ABV is aged for more than 14 months in sauvignon blanc wine barrels with Brettanomyces. Lots of Belgian yeastiness with sharp wild acidic tartness of the Brett comes through. ($8/12-ounce glass, $16 for two 16-ounce crowlers)
Other local breweries offer Belgians too. Vintage Brewing Company makes Dedication, a Belgian dubbel and a 2019 gold medal winner at the Great American Beer Festival. Starkweather Brewing Company always has a Belgian beer or two on the menu. And Sunshine Brewing Company in Lake Mills was founded on making Belgian beer styles.
