Robin Shepard
Finding the right holiday beer is a little like shopping for just the right gift for someone with special tastes. All too often spiced beers this time of year are loaded with flavors that, well bluntly put, should be in desserts and not in a pint glass. With that in mind I went looking for a little seasonal cheer with unique character that fits the season. I like a little bit of spice that isn’t overbearing with malty sweetness and warmth. What I discovered in the New Glarus beer depot was Gotlandic Ale, a Scandinavian brew that conjures up images of a roaring fireplace and the piney aroma of a nearby Christmas tree.
What is it? Gotlandic Ale from New Glarus Brewing Company
Style: Gotlandic ale is a modern take on Gotlandsdricka, a beer that was historically homebrewed and served unfiltered and unpasteurized on the island of Gotland, Sweden in the Baltic Sea. Gotlandsdricka means “Gotlandic drink” or “Drink of the Good Land.” In its homeland it was traditionally distinguished from beer meant for more special occasions. It was a common drink, low in alcohol and served to everyone in the family, including children. It’s an early farmhouse ale, made with malt, juniper, birch sap and sometimes honey. The earliest versions would have been brewed by women, while the basic ingredients like juniper were gathered by men. Gotlandsdricka is said to have been the everyday drink of the Vikings.
Background: Gotlandic ale was brewed earlier this year by New Glarus Brewmaster Dan Carey and Joakim Eneqvist, a brewmaster at Gotlands Bryggeri in Visby, a seaport city in Gotland. Eneqvist came to New Glarus last January to make this beer with Carey. “We try to do one collaboration beer a year with an overseas brewery,” says Carey. “The recipe is based on what his mother used to brew at home.”
This collaboration is made with a nod to historical Swedish brewing techniques. Carey and Eneqvist cut Wisconsin juniper boughs that were added to a blend of Swedish, German and Wisconsin malts. They also used smoked cherrywood malts from Wisconsin and birch-smoked malts from Colorado that give the beer a distinctive aroma and flavor. Combining specialty malts with juniper boughs lends a tannic character, but not as harsh as one gets from juniper berries (creating more gin-like flavors).
Gotlandic is sold in the New Glarus R&D Series. You might think of R&D as research and development; however, the brewery refers to these beers as inspired by Randy Thiel, director of quality assurance, and Dan Carey, brewery co-owner and brewmaster. R&D beers are packaged in 500 mL bottles and sell for $15 from the brewery’s beer depot. Gotlandic Ale finishes at 7 percent ABV.
Tasting notes:
- Aroma: A smooth sweet smokiness with hints of bready caramel maltiness.
- Appearance: A deep amber-bronze color. A thick bubbly soft tan head.
- Texture: Medium-bodied with bubbly softness.
- Taste: Smooth, sweet smokiness. The cherrywood seem more prominent. The smoke transitions into the mild piney juniper notes in the background. This is not a harsh minty pine; more of a sweet mild evergreen accent to the smoked malts.
- Finish/Aftertaste: A pleasing combination of mildly smoked malt and lingering spiciness.
Glassware: Given the tie to the Vikings, the drinking horn seems appropriate, but it’s not that practical or available in most Wisconsin households. This rare treat is best enjoyed in a snifter that shows off the beer’s color and focuses the aroma of smoke and juniper.
Pairs well with: steamed scallops, clams and mussels. The sweet smoke and light hint of pine and juniper are a nice combination for these seafoods. It’s also very good all on its own as a nightcap, the better to appreciate its complexity.
The Verdict: Gotlandic is an ideal brew for decompressing after a big holiday meal. Smoked beers aren’t for everyone. But this beer has an approachable level of light, woody, campfire sweetness that blends well with its hints of juniper. That softens as the beer warms to room temperature. Serve it above 45 degrees to best appreciate all that’s going on in the glass. This beer was brewed nearly a year ago. I was pleasantly surprised as the additional bottle conditioning has allowed it to mellow, with the smoked malts melding with the juniper and other flavors.
