Paulius Musteikis
Cafe Hollander is undoubtedly a place for beer. The main attraction is sampling through the 30 rotating taps with Low Countries-inspired fare like bitterballen and moules frites.
But there are cocktails, too, as well as a number of specialty Bloody Mary’s (try the Milwaukeean, with Lakefront Fixed Gear and horseradish-infused Rehorst Vodka).
There’s an inexpensive Old Fashioned that boasts the subtle addition of walnut bitters. That nuttiness seems apt this time of year, and provides a good local flavor twist. Additionally, there’s a dangerous, crowd-pleasing Spiced Pear Sangria (brandy, wine, pineapple juice), which seems optimally designed to encourage the order of a second round.
But the standout drink is the Blackberry Smash, served with two large and luscious blackberries. It’s a balanced mix of Bulleit Rye, lemon juice and rhubarb shrub. It isn’t too sweet, just hefty enough to be taken seriously.
It doesn’t hurt that bartender Craig Spaulding — former owner of Cafe Montmartre — is the one serving the cocktails. Spaulding seems so well placed behind the bar that one wonders if he was planted first, and then Hollander was constructed around him. And sure, he knows the beer list — but you should ask him to make a drink.
