For Thanksgiving, think light. The meal is big, and it's often a slog, lasting for hours. What you're looking for is something to lift you along through the green bean casserole and inevitable uncomfortable political conversations. Choose wines that relieve pressure: bubbly, Alsatian whites; pleasant Chardonnays; and reds about as heavy as a Pinot Noir and no heavier. Okay, maybe a Merlot for Aunt Jean, if that's all she'll drink.
Or why not go with American producers? Enter Pinot Noir. For a true legend, pick up a bottle of Eyrie Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2012 ($39). Winemaker David Lett and his wife, Diana, first planted Pinot grapes in Oregon in the late 1960s. A few years later, the wine was winning international competitions. It remains a magnificent example of classic Oregon Pinot -- plus the wine's spiced cherry notes go smashingly well with all things Thanksgiving.
For something a bit less expensive, try Evesham Wood Pinot Noir 2012 ($24). This is often considered the best American Pinot at its price-point (although it's a bit more expensive than what is considered "normal" in the Madison market). When Russ and Mary Raney launched Evesham Wood in the late '80s, the vineyard drew a nearly cult following with its straightforward, terroir-driven wine that tastes like cranberry with a hint of mushroom. Today, the vineyard and brand has been passed along to Erin and Jordan Nuccio, who continue the legacy of organic, non-irrigated growing.
Sometimes it feels as if you have to sacrifice quality for quantity in order to feed and refresh the masses at Thanksgiving. With Sean Minor's award-winning wines you don't have to feel the pinch. The clean, easy-drinking bottle of his Four Bears Sauvignon Blanc ($11) is whole-cluster fermented -- this reduces the astringency from the skins. That's the long way of saying this Sauvignon is made out of cashmere.
Equally impressive is the intriguingly complex (especially at this price) Sean Minor Four Bears Central Coast Chardonnay ($11). Pear, apricot and apple flavors with, yes, a bit of butter and toast, this bottle will have the assembled guests at your holiday table thankful you’re the one bringing the wine.
