Linda Falkenstein
The eggplant pita is a rich treat, with feta, charred onions and pine nuts.
Way back, I had a friend who liked to say, “Proximity is the first cause of friendship.” He claimed this was the one thing he had taken away from an Intro to Sociology course, and in fact, this is a social psych chestnut known as “the proximity principle” based on studies that demonstrated people tend to be friends with people who live near them — which, if you stop to think about it, is kind of a no-brainer.
I like to extend the proximity principle to people’s choice of restaurants. I’m sure there are people who, in their spare time, go out of their way to eat at restaurants that are on the other side of town from where they live just for kicks, but I tend to end up at the restaurant that is closest to my house because it’s late, I’m tired or I’m very, very hungry. That’s why living near the Willy Street corridor, for instance, is very appealing, because you can go to a restaurant near where you live, yet have multiple choices.
Other areas are not as fortunate. Madison’s north side is particularly underserved, even though more eateries are slowly trickling in. Pickings are even slimmer to the far north boundary of the city where Madison hits the town of Westport. That’s part of the reason the new Athens Grill seems to have been warmly embraced by area residents (including me). That said, I’m not sure I would tell anyone out of the area to make a special trip here.
The restaurant grew out of a Greek food concession in the former Trader Gus gas station (it’s now a Kwik Trip Tobacco Mart gas station, which necessitated the move). While the construction of the new restaurant took over a year, it was worth it — it’s a well lit, pleasant space, with an order counter at one end, a full bar, plenty of tables, couches here and there, even a game corner.
When Athens Gyros first opened in the gas station in 2007, there were more Greek dishes on the menu like moussaka, Greek potatoes, and desserts like galaktoboureko and karidopita. I’d been hoping for their return, but while the new Athens Grill has a somewhat expanded menu, it hasn’t necessarily gone in a more Greek direction.
Some of the new menu items are good additions. The grilled eggplant pita carries lots of flavor from the grill in the disks of well-done eggplant that melt into the hummus along with charred onion, feta and pine nuts.
The other new bright spot on the menu is the Mediterranean grain salad, based on arugula (the menu says kale) interspersed with bulgur, roast winter squash, chickpeas, pumpkin seeds, pickled golden raisins, and a light, pleasant vinaigrette. Even though the arugula is the supermarket variety that lacks this green’s rocket-like zip, the squash and raisins do take this far beyond the typical fast food salad. It’s easy to split among two or three for a side. While I liked the dressing, I’d suggest ordering it on the side if you fear overapplication.
The Smashburger, a Big Mac-like double-pattied creation, tasted mostly of the grilled bun, a bronzed brioche creation. The flavor of grease overwhelmed the beef, but the colby cheese, pickles and “Lightning Sauce” combine to make it a decent meal.
I’d avoid the gyros burger, which gloms chips of gyros meat on top of the hamburger patty along with tzatziki sauce and feta cheese, a flavor mishmash that did not equal more than the sum of its clashing parts. The lemon chicken soup was too thick and without the delicate lemon flavor associated with this classic. And the macaroni and cheese, of the gooey-and-thick school rather than the creamy variety, is just okay; the noodles had a nice bite, but the garlic breadcrumbs on top wrecked the whole thing with a harsh, bitter note.
Gyros or the chicken pita sandwich are better bets than burgers, especially the loaded classic gyro that adds cucumbers, tahini and feta to the usual tomatoes, onions and tzatziki sauce.
An odd daily special was a beef taco. The beef was tender, but plain, more like something that would go in a steak sandwich. But the green salsa that came with it, a burst of spicy avocado and cilantro, was the best thing I’ve eaten here. The baklava is also good — phyllo crisp and the filling sweet, but not honey-sodden.
The happy hour seems to be doing well; the tap beer list is interesting (e.g. Magic Dragon IIPA, Space Dust, White Rascal) and curds, fries and wings go on special 3 to 5 p.m.
I did see a mezze platter on the board as a daily special, just once, and regretted not ordering it. That would be a great addition to the regular menu. A sign behind the counter says more daily specials are in the works, so there’s hope for Greeker pleasures.
Athens Grill
5430 Willow Road, Westport; 608-220-3340
theathensgrill.com; 11 am-9 pm Mon.-Sat. $2-$11
