Carolyn Fath
The delicious cemita de Milanesa: deep-fried chicken cutlet, thinly sliced ham and all the fixins.
Perhaps it’s stating the obvious, but it’s the hole-in-the-wall eateries where you find some of the most delicious food and uncommon treats. This holds true with El Panzon Loncheria y Panaderia, which opened last spring on Midvale Boulevard in the same strip mall as the legendary Le Tigre Lounge, and features many specialties from owners Jose Vazquez and Anahi Rojas, whose home state is Tlaxcala, Mexico.
The inside of El Panzon is a bit of an enigma. There are just a scattering of tables and chairs, mostly two-tops, a counter brimming with Mexican candies and treats and a bakery case which is, unfortunately, obscured by a large drink cooler and stack of high chairs. The Lane wallpaper, presumably a carryover from the previous business, doesn’t quite fit the mood.
The bakery case — which accounts for the panaderia part of El Panzon’s name — contains some Mexican specialities that are not abundant in these parts. I was immediately transported back to an eighth grade field trip to the Pilsen neighborhood in Chicago, where I had some of the best pan de los muertos that I still dream about almost 30 years later. Their concha is a sweet bread, topped with chocolate or sugar. The chamuco is made with a similar dough as the concha, but is slightly flatter and filled in the center with cream cheese or fruit. These pastries are just slightly sweet, and lend themselves to partnering with a good cup of coffee.
On to the loncheria side of business. Translated, loncheria means snack bar. Many of the dishes are more lunch-sized than what you might eat for a full dinner. The tacos are a perfect choice if you want to try a couple of different meats, like campechano (chorizo and steak), pastor (slow-cooked, marinated pork), carnitas (deep-fried pork) and lengua (tongue). The typical accompaniment of onions, cilantro and lime wedges is provided, as well as a delectable green salsa for fans of mild, and a fiery red salsa for those who like a little pain when they eat.
Their mole chicken comes as two meaty drumsticks, covered in a rich chocolate sauce that continually builds heat. The sides of rice and pinto beans were a nice addition to help squelch some burn; warmed corn tortillas also came with the dish.
Weekend specials include pozole, a hearty Mexican stew loaded with hominy, meat and seasonings, and caldo de camarón, a tomato broth overflowing with shrimp and good flavor. Unfortunately, on my weekend visit, El Panzon did not have either of these items available. They did, however, have menudo, another traditional Mexican soup made with a red chili pepper-based broth and beef stomach. Served with a side of tortillas for dipping or filling, and a small side dish of cilantro, onions, and dried red chiles for garnish, this soup can become what you make it. I thought the broth was incredibly flavorful and enjoyed the first several bites of stomach, but could have done with less of the ingredient.
What I would call El Panzon’s signature dish — the cemita — is not necessarily a “snack” item, per se. Similar to a torta, yet vastly different in size and character, the cemita (which originated in Puebla, which borders Tlaxcala), is a gigantic sandwich with a homemade brioche-like bun, covered in sesame seeds and about seven inches in diameter. The restaurant hollows out some of the bread to make room for fillings, which is absolutely necessary as this dish is stuffed to the brim with avocado, lettuce, cheese, pickled jalapeños and the meat of your choosing. My favorite was the cemita de Milanesa, with a delicious, deep-fried chicken cutlet and thinly sliced ham. I had to take half home. My 12-year-old finished all of his and deserves a t-shirt.
El Panzon also offers the traditional cold beverages tepache and jamaica. Tepache is fermented pineapple peel and rind, sweetened with just a bit of brown sugar and cinnamon, which produces a drink that crosses from sweet to bitter to sour. It is not quite as fizzy as kombucha and carries a different flavor profile. Jamaica is steeped hibiscus flower and tastes similar to sweetened cranberry juice. Both specialties are refreshing, and made in-house.
I love seeing so many different Mexican and Latin American places popping up around Madison. To the untrained eye, this may seem like a lot of the same thing, but there is so much diversity between cuisines, including within the different regions of Mexico, that you really need to try them all for their individuality. El Panzon stands out with delectable, homemade bakery, unique beverages, and a sandwich bigger than your head. Cross that one off your culinary bucket list.
El Panzon
1310 S. Midvale Blvd.; 600-819-6189; www.facebook.com/el.panzon.90;
Hours: 8 am-10 pm Mon., 8 am-2 pm Tues., 8 am-10 pm Wed.-Sat., 8 am-9 pm Sun.;
$2-$12
