Candice Wagener
Pretty, healthy and delicious: Land of Fruit and Nuts checks off all the boxes.
The vibe in downtown Middleton has transformed since the opening of the new Middleton Center in 2017. What used to be a sedate strip containing a Christmas specialty store and insurance and real estate agencies is now a row of lively businesses beneath a multi-story apartment complex — there’s even a fitness center run by a former contestant on The Bachelorette. Helbachs Coffee Roasters + Kitchen fits right into the groove at the corner of Parmenter Street and Hubbard Avenue.
The space is large, with multiple options for seating depending if you’re there to work at a table or socialize on the sofas. The mix of wood, brick and metal interior elements gives the space a utilitarian feel. In contrast to the large seating space, the kitchen appears small, so I was pleasantly surprised by the extensive menu and how quickly meals were prepared. There are a handful of breakfast entrees, but most of the menu is devoted to lunch sandwiches and wraps.
The seasonal roasted vegetable soup was simple yet exquisite with a rich, earthy flavor and the perfect complements of sharp parmesan wedges and rustic multigrain toast.
Avocado toast comes as a basic preparation of smashed avocado on multigrain bread, or with roasted red pepper, wilted spinach and feta. All good elements, but both versions need something more — even just a sprinkle of salt. Salt is not provided on the tables, but I was satisfied after drizzling the toast with the luscious garlic aioli that came alongside.
The award for most beautiful dish with the funniest name goes to “Land of Fruit and Nuts,” with a base of vanilla yogurt and bright red goji berries. Flax, hemp, chia seeds, pepitas, toasted coconut, cacao nibs, chopped almonds and fresh fruit (plentiful sliced strawberries, kiwi and pineapple) complete the bowl.
The sandwich menu ranges from a couple of beef wraps — a grilled harissa and a Patagonian version — to a peppercorn turkey sandwich and a Bavarian panini (turkey, ham and salami). Gravlax with hard boiled egg on a seeded croissant is a nice change of pace. The cashew chicken salad sandwich, with chopped chicken breast, creamy yogurt dressing, celery, cashews and grapes, also comes on a seeded croissant — more of the filling was needed.
On weekends, Helbachs rolls out a few additions to their menu as brunch specials. Items like cheese blintzes and aebleskiver (puffy Danish pancakes) satisfy the sweet tooth. If you are looking for something more hearty, get the spicy chicken tinga, a generous platter of seasoned shredded chicken, two sunny side up eggs, a stack of grilled pitas and warmed corn tortillas, and a pleasing spread of guacamole, pico de gallo, feta, sliced jalapeños, red leaf lettuce and lime wedges to round out this build-your-own dish.
All of the pastries are made in-house and are worth saving room for. A square of banana cake was decadent with peanut butter frosting. A chocolate croissant was a special indulgence that flaked just right. They all pair well with the house-roasted coffee, or a beautiful lavender latte.
Helbachs serves a couple of smoothies but I’d love to see a little more experimentation here. I’d also like to see a transition from plastic cups to glass when you’re dining in. Helbachs serves cocktails, beer and wine Thursday through Saturday evenings.
Since opening in April, Helbachs has had a steady stream of customers and the ordering system may need tweaking. Only one person at the counter takes orders, pours basic drinks, plates baked goods, and handles payments — the line backs up at peak times. You also have to pay very close attention if you order a specialty drink for when it’s ready, but you get a buzzer that alerts you when food is up.
Middleton seems receptive to the new coffeehouse kid on the block, and the desire to hang out in downtown Middleton is likely to continue to grow. Helbachs is a spot with healthy, hearty food and good coffee that should charm a whole new generation of Middleton residents.
Helbachs Coffee Roasters + Kitchen
1824 Parmenter St., Middleton; 608-824-6147; helbachs.com;
7 am-5 pm Mon.-Fri., 8 am-4 pm Sat., 8 am-3 pm Sun.; $6-$15
