Paulius Musteikis
Oh, snap! Fabulous favas with yogurt on a bagette are a highlight of a cold mezze plate.
The great Amy’s Cafe is no more. How quietly it drifted into that nostalgia-filled good night. For years, Amy’s was one of the top hot spots downtown for people to see and be seen. It was frequented by, well, everybody, but mostly the cadre of what counted as Madison’s intellectuals — the profs, grad students, firebrand liberals, feminists, writers, anarchists and whoever else wanted to play chess and argue about which Bukowski novel is best (it’s his first, Post Office).
Amy’s was the kind of spot where you’d see the experimental playwright Joel Gersmann chatting with Siggi, the drummer from the Sugarcubes.
The Mediterranean plate was the stuff of legend, massive and inexpensive, filling the hungry but insolvent hipsters who frequented the cafe as much for its budget comfort food as its conversation. But after 2000, Amy’s went into decline, losing out to the homogeneity of lower State Street and the area’s relentless march toward landlord-driven mediocrity. The cafe drifted until Rick Brahmer and Gwen Cassis took over in 2011 (the couple also operate the Argus), but it was too late. The concept didn’t work anymore.
What a thrill, then, to now have Mezze. The space has been thoughtfully remodeled, and sports an entirely new menu (with some familiarity) as well as an updated drinks list. So far, Mezze seems destined to become every bit the gem Amy’s once was.
Light wood brightens the little restaurant’s dining area. Handmade tables create a unique atmosphere that was sorely lacking, and bright blue Oberon umbrellas enliven the outdoor sidewalk. Candles at the tables round out the “date night” coziness of the remodeled space, and couples take advantage of the nooks and crannies to get close. The feel is charming, subdued, Bohemian and wildly dissimilar from anything nearby.
The sense that Mezze is an oasis is furthered by the small but convivial bar. Fresh herbs on the counter are destined for cocktails, there’s a good wine list, and excellent bottles of liquor line the back shelves. This may be a sign that things are headed in a better direction for lower State.
Manager Dave Biefer is a Forequarter alum, and his experience shows. Craft cocktail creations can tend toward the geeky — usually in a good way — and a thoughtful list of classics for around $6 is sure to get a steady crowd. Service can be slow, but then again, that’s true nearly everywhere that has a good list of drinks that take time to make. An out-of-the-ordinary tap beer selection will please the impatient.
Paulius Musteikis
Lettuce isn’t the only gem in this salad, with asparagus, radish and pomegranate.
Gone are the burgers and waffle fries, but some of Amy’s former Mediterranean bent has been preserved with a menu that skews Lebanese. A small-plate, or mezze, style pervades the list, making the offerings ideal for sharing between couples or even among large groups.
The menu is smartly divided between “cold,” “hot” and “pizza.” In the first group, there’s a stellar fava bean dish with yogurt and roasted garlic served with baguette. The favas have snap and are a good counterpoint to the thick and tangy yogurt. Equally compelling is the gem lettuce salad with a bit of pomegranate and fried pita with radishes and a touch of asparagus. There’s an inexpensive cheese and charcuterie board, both nicely presented and ideal for a quick snack.
Among the hot items are addictive za’atar fries. Za’atar is a condiment spice blend of thyme, sesame seeds and sumac, herbaceous with a lemony zing.
A well-executed falafel with taratour (tahini with lemon, salt and a bit of water to thin it out) is served with crunchy pita and spicy pepperoncini. It’s a great accompaniment to the broccoli rabe, a spot-on preparation with pine nuts and raisins that have been steeped in arak (think light anise or licorice notes). This snacky section is completed with chicken and pork kebabs, both of which arrive tender and nicely charred. The lamb kefta has great flavor, but is a touch tougher than usual.
Pizzas at Mezze are stars. There’s a ridiculously good ’nduja (spreadable sausage) with SarVecchio cheese and tomato, but even the simple basil with garlic and mozzarella will impress. Underground Meats’ coppa makes for a perfect pie along with arugula and the soft cheese scamorza, all tied together with a garlic cream sauce. The same garlic cream makes its appearance on the chevre pizza, along with pistachio, aleppo pepper and rosemary for a flavor combination that wows on the thin, cracker-like crust.
It’s a menu designed for a lot of frequent and repeat visits, and notably some of the very best items coming out of the kitchen are vegetables.
It’s as if, in reimagining Amy’s, no risk was left untaken. Quality, inventive drinks? Yes. Beautiful but not-too-filling pizzas? Check. Vegetable-centric small plates? Sure. Decent wine above $20 a bottle? Why not.
It’s a glorious test of the emergency Madison soul system. Is there one still? We can only hope that as Amy’s fell behind the times, Mezze isn’t ahead of its.
414 W. Gilman St., 608-255-8172,
Food service 5 pm-midnight, bar 4 pm-2:30 am Mon.-Sat.,
$3-$14
