Laura Zastrow
Portillo’s will satisfy the need for a Chicago dog fix.
Portillo’s opened its first small hot dog stand in 1963 in Villa Park, Illinois, and was already an established institution in the Chicago area by the time I was born. It was one of my family’s regular fast food joints when I was growing up, so I was thrilled when Portillo’s opened a location near East Towne Mall. In its 56 years in business, Portillo’s has grown into a national franchise with a full menu and an emphasis on Chicago street food.
I love the 1950s kitschy diner atmosphere, complete with rock ‘n’ roll tunes and posters of The Beatles and retro ads for Coca-Cola, but I was also pleased to note diversity in the staff and customers, reflecting a much more present-day vibe. Diners order at the counter and select their seats after they pick up their food. The building is large and the seating is ample, so even at peak times you’ll find a spot.
Truth be told, before this review I had only ever ordered about four things at Portillo’s, despite all my childhood visits. And my all-time favorite maintains its rank. One bite into a Chicago dog, nestled in a poppy seed bun with layers of neon green relish, diced onions, tomato wedges, and hot sport peppers, drizzled with mustard (and ONLY mustard), and I am instantly transported home, or — better yet — to the stands at Wrigley Field. Add some crispy french fries with cheese sauce and a creamy chocolate shake, and I’m in a happy place. Portillo’s is your best bet for an authentic Chicago dog in Madison.
The burgers are fine, but they’re not replacing a Culver’s ButterBurger for me. The flavor is just a bit too charcoal-infused for my liking, and they’re on the dry side. If you’re going beef here, go with the Italian. A Chicago specialty, the Italian beef sandwich is very thinly shaved, slow-roasted beef piled extremely high on Chicago’s own Turano french rolls.
There are two camps with regard to the Italian beef: “dipped” (the entire sandwich gets a burst of flavor from being dunked in “gravy,” aka meat juices heavily seasoned with oregano and garlic) or “dry” (less juice, but which still involves a splash of gravy). It’s also a common custom to add peppers. My favorite is hot giardiniera, a biting mix of sport peppers, cauliflower, carrots and celery pickled in oil and vinegar, but milder tongues can opt for roasted sweet peppers instead.
Portillo’s is a fast food restaurant, so there aren’t many healthy options. Even the salads, many of which have as many (or more) calories as the sandwiches, are questionable as light fare. Classics like Greek, Caesar, and garden salads are available. There’s also a Garbage salad, essentially salad greens tossed with antipasto ingredients. I went with their signature chopped salad in an attempt to eat healthier but, because it weighs in at nearly 800 calories, I could have fared better with a chili cheese dog. Don’t get me wrong, the salad was both filling and delicious, iceberg and romaine lettuce tossed in a tangy vinaigrette and topped with generous amounts of gorgonzola, bacon bits, tomatoes, green onion, red cabbage and ditalini. It’s just not diet fare.
If you’re looking for a little lighter option, the charbroiled chicken sandwich is a good choice. A plump piece of chicken was nicely seasoned and seared on the outside but still juicy on the inside. It’s served on Portillo’s signature, corn-dusted soft bun and topped with lettuce and tomato. Calorie-counters can even hold the mayo and come away satisfied.
Even at the restaurant’s busiest, I’ve found the line runs smoothly and the servers entertain with their rhymes: “Number two-thirty-two, this is for you!” The drive-through situation, however, is another story. It’s hard to get a good visual on the menu before you’re expected to order, which slows the process. Also, both times that I used the drive-through, my order came out wrong. There’s room for improvement here.
I would also love to see Portillo’s come into the current times in their environmental practices. There are a lot of single-use plastics and Styrofoam containers involved, with no recycling receptacles that I saw. I would advocate for more eco-friendly packaging.
The east side is still a bit of a hike from Middleton, where I live, but I’m glad I can get my Chicago fix in 30 minutes as opposed to 120-plus. It sure is a nice treat to indulge in once in a while.
Portillo’s
4505 East Towne Blvd.; 608-819-2720; portillos.com;
10:30 am-10:30 pm Sun.-Thur., 10:30 am-11 pm Fri.-Sat.; $3-$20
