Amy Stocklein
Tandoori chicken is marinated in yogurt and spices and slow roasted.
The sign above the building reads merely “Indian Cuisine.” Adding “Royal” would help differentiate this restaurant, which opened in the High Point Shopping Center in September, from the previous tenant, Haldi Masala — also an Indian spot.
There are plenty of Indian restaurants in Madison, although the majority of them are clustered on the west side. Royal Indian doesn’t obviously specialize in the cuisine of one geographic region of the country, but does feel a bit like stepping into a family’s home. The staff is as friendly as a longtime neighbor, and the kitchen conveys the passion and pride behind the dishes.
At first glance, the menu can be overwhelming, with more than 50 options for entrees alone. Many dishes, however, are variations on a theme (i.e. same sauce, different protein). And there are ample options for vegetarians.
Before we ordered, the server brought out papad, thin and crispy lentil crackers laced with fennel seeds. These have a nice, subtle flavor on their own, but are even better with the accompanying mint chutney and tamarind sauces.
The naan is also excellent. A leavened, oven-baked flatbread that works well to soak up rich sauces, Royal Indian’s version is light and puffy. The garlic-stuffed version is full-on pungent, perfect for garlic lovers. There is a larger selection of stuffed naan here than is often found in Madison, including a keema naan filled with minced lamb, and Peshwari naan, with raisins, almonds, coconut, cherries and fennel seed.
Much of the menu represents Indian comfort food at its best. The butter chicken is exquisite, with zesty ginger emerging from the rich ghee and cream, finishing with bursts of cumin, chili, cinnamon and turmeric.
The masala sauce is similar in flavor, though less creamy, and with more tomato. It works well for simmering hard boiled eggs for the egg masala.
The tandoori chicken, marinated in yogurt and spices and slow roasted, doesn’t even need an additional sauce. Daal beef with a light mash of yellow lentils is another healthy option. Lamb vindaloo came with a rich tomato sauce and tender pieces of lamb throughout; goat curry was also tender, with strong coriander and cardamom flavor.
What mild, medium and hot mean at Indian restaurants can vary. Here, “medium” amps up the intensity of most dishes quite a bit.
Even the basmati rice accompanying dishes here deserves recognition. It’s steamed with whole cardamom pods, taking it from bland to savory.
Like most area Indian restaurants, Royal Indian offers a buffet lunch. Serving buffet-style is a centuries-old tradition in Indian cuisine, not just a lure to the all-you-can-eat crowd. But on the day I tried the buffet, it was apparent that the food had been sitting out for a bit. Sauces had a skin over the top, pakoras were a bit soggy. There may be no remedy for this; food cooked to order always is better. A buffet will always be a tradeoff, but a better rotation of the foods that are out might help.
Royal Indian is a welcome addition to Madison’s Indian food scene. The kitchen is working hard to showcase the flavors of Indian cooking. With its proximity to West Towne Mall, it’s refreshing to have Royal Indian available for some real comfort food.
Royal Indian Cuisine
7475 Mineral Point Rd.; 608-841-1619; royalmadison.site
11:30 am-3 pm, 5 pm-10 pm Tues.-Sat.; $2-$15
