Laura Zastrow
Perfect combo: a 16-inch carne asada machete and the Machete Margarita.
Francisco’s Cantina, which closed in January after about seven years at 121 E. Main St., was always something of a gem — a cozy spot for reliably great Mexican food with outdoor seating and hours that extended past bar time.
Señor Machetes, operating in the space since February, is more than a worthy replacement. Run by married couple Noel Quintana and Ofelia Garcia, both originally from Mexico, the restaurant is named for its signature menu offering — a deluxe, extra-long quesadilla the shape (and approximate length) of a machete blade. It’s as amazing as it sounds, and so is everything else on the menu. And the handmade tortillas are among the best in town.
Machetes are new to Madison, but they’re one of Mexico City’s specialty street foods. Señor Machetes stuffs theirs with Oaxaca cheese, vegetables and a choice of chicken, beef, pork al pastor, chorizo or shrimp (or a combination of meats). Machetes come in three sizes: 9, 16 and 22 inches. I ordered the smallest, which is probably enough to satisfy most people. But if you’re debating, go bigger. It comes with salsa, pickled onion and a refreshing cucumber pico de gallo on the side. The corn tortilla is perfect — thick yet tender with a nutty flavor and a crisp, buttery exterior.
Gorditas, sopes and huaraches — all variations on the same concept — also make use of the handmade tortillas, and all are excellent. Gorditas are small, round cakes made from masa (tortilla dough), fried crisp, stuffed with beans and meat and topped with avocado and sour cream. Sopes are an open-faced version of the gordita, with meat, beans, avocado and queso fresco piled atop a thick tortilla. Huaraches are the biggest of all — a thick, crispy, football-shaped tortilla topped just like the sope.
There’s also something called a toña, which was unfamiliar to me. It’s similar to the 9-inch machete in size, shape and filling, but the tortilla is thicker. Or maybe it’s more like a super-sized gordita (minus the beans), stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and choice of meat. I almost preferred this to the machete, as the thicker tortilla gives a somewhat tamale-like texture. Toñas also come with a side of creamy chipotle sauce, which enhances the dish.
A good queso fundido is a thing of beauty, and Señor Machetes’ version is simple and satisfying, topped with chorizo, tomatoes and cilantro and served with chips. It’s a generous portion for $6. Guacamole is also solid. Chips and salsa are complimentary, and there’s a spicier salsa available upon request. This is highly recommended.
Ceviche is listed among the entrees, but it’s also perfect with the chips as an appetizer. Big, fresh-tasting shrimp are marinated in lime juice and topped with ripe tomatoes, cilantro and avocado. The menu description doesn’t mention jalapeño, but there was definitely some present on my visit, which gave the dish a surprising (and very welcome) kick of heat. I would go back specifically to try the shrimp cocktail — the Mexican recipe is even better than the iconic American steakhouse version.
Other traditional favorites, like tacos, enchiladas, burritos and tamales, are also tasty. Corn husk-wrapped tamales come filled with pork or chicken and topped with either a smoky red or a spicy green sauce. The flavor was good, but there wasn’t quite enough salsa. Tacos also hit the mark, served with the classic double corn tortilla and topped with cilantro and onion. Steak was tender and flavorful and so was the pork al pastor, but the latter almost had too much pineapple flavor. A vegetable burrito came generously stuffed with sautéed bell peppers, but it was curiously (and sadly) missing cheese.
Drinks are also a highlight. I particularly loved the paloma, a refreshing blend of tequila, grapefruit juice and seltzer topped with a sprinkle of spicy tajín seasoning. There are also several versions of margaritas. My friend didn’t care for the frozen strawberry, but I liked the classic lime on the rocks with salt. There are other interesting-sounding specialty cocktails and plenty of Mexican beers available.
My only (very minor) gripe with Señor Machetes is the hours — Francisco’s Cantina was open until 3 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights, while Señor Machetes closes at 11 p.m. on weekends. This is a completely reasonable time for a restaurant to close! But who wouldn’t want a post-bar machete? Just something to consider. Until then, I will happily dine here at a normal meal time.
Señor Machetes
121 E. Main St.; 608-665-3031; smachetes1975.wixsite.com/senormachetes
11 am-9 pm Sun.-Thurs.; 11 am-11 pm Fri.-Sat.; $3-$17. Wheelchair accessible.
