Epicurean Chronicles
Whitefish with hard-boiled egg: it’s all about contrasts.
There is something beautiful about simple experiences. Maybe I’ve geeked out a bit too much on Samin Nosrat’s Salt Fat Acid Heat on Netflix, but her belief that “it doesn’t have to be fancy to be good” resonates. So I felt in my element every time I visited The Heights Kitchen, the new eatery from Madison’s Underground Food Collective, whose stated mission is “thoughtful and approachable preparations of the finest ingredients.”
The Heights Kitchen achieves perfectly the atmosphere of neighborhood cafe. Sunlight streams through the large windows into the cheerful dining room of white-washed tables and cafe chairs. There’s always good music on in the background, at a volume that still permits intimate conversation with dining companions.
Everything on the menu is simple but exquisite. The breakfast sandwich is basic: meat and cheese on a bun. But it’s Underground Butcher soppressata, Hook’s cheddar, and a homemade brioche bun that is doughy and sweet on the inside, crunchy and savory on the outside. The spicy aioli is actually spicy and the over-easy egg from Bryant Family Farms of Mineral Point is perfectly cooked. Feel no shame about licking your fingers and dirtying your napkin.
Speaking of the napkins, I don’t usually comment on tableware at restaurants. But here, soft cotton napkins and charming tarnished gold silverware add to the homey feeling.
Another beautifully simple but divine dish is the soft-boiled egg, accompanied by a pinch pot of Maldon sea salt, triangles of Uplands Pleasant Ridge Reserve, and triangles of Origin Breads’ sprouted rye — combining one of the area’s best cheeses with one of its best breads. My exposure to rye bread growing up was the hearty loaves my grandma would bring from the Bohemian bakery. That flavor can be a little overwhelming, so I love the Origin Breads version. There’s just a subtle hint of rye and a very dense, chewy texture. I’m glad to see The Heights sourcing from this Madison bakery.
A yogurt dish unearthed feelings I typically reserve for dry-aged steaks, artisan cheeses and intricate desserts. Simple ingredients (plain yogurt, apple slices, seed-heavy granola) with a less-expected dash of sorrel powder come together to create complex flavor bursts. But the pièce de résistance is the shaved carrot jam — the best preparation of carrots I’ve ever had.
The matzo ball soup has a rich, savory broth packed with so much flavor I found myself closing my eyes, trying to detect all I was tasting. The misshapen matzo balls are clearly homemade; both the ginger and rosemary in these work well. The micro-dice of carrot and celery must be thrown into the broth at the last minute, because they were still crunchy and create a textural appeal not normally found in this soup. I was disappointed that the large chunks of chicken were rubbery. I wonder if shredded pieces would work better.
The Heights is open all day; the menu changes at dinner. Toulouse sausage on a bed of beans (again, something so simple — white beans! ) with mustard breadcrumbs and sauerkraut goes from herby to meaty to sour to creamy to crunchy. Delightful. The little sprigs of greens on top are a nice addition, too.
The whitefish, served skin-on, is another highlight. The skin comes off easily if you prefer, but it’s a pleasingly crispy contrast to the juicy filet underneath. Don’t skip the accompanying aioli and hard-boiled egg chunks peppered with herbs, capers and pickles. It’s sweet-sour-salty, all in one bite.
The culotte steak (a cut from the cap of the top sirloin) comes with a red pepper relish that contains sweet peppers with chili peppers sprinkled in, giving the dish some intensity. If you have a large appetite, know that this steak is only about five ounces. But that’s another bonus, in my opinion: promoting healthy portions that people can realistically eat in one sitting.
I am charmed by the relaxed, peaceful atmosphere at The Heights. Chef Allie Christian and her crew have perfected the art of simple, delicious food. I can’t wait to see the menu continue to evolve as the seasons change.
[This review was updated to correctly credit the photo to Epicurean Chronicles.]
The Heights Kitchen
11 N. Allen St.; 608-405-5500; theheightskitchen.com
7 am-8 pm Mon.-Thurs., 7 am-9 pm Fri., 8 am-9 pm Sat., 9 am-2 pm Sun.
$3-$18; Accessible entrance at rear
