Carolyn Fath
Personal-size Swiss and asparagus quiche.
When we first moved to Middleton, Scott’s Pastry Shoppe beckoned, reminding me of the charming, family-owned German bakery in my hometown. I was saddened by Scott’s closing last summer. But I took comfort when Chocolaterian, another locally owned business, with an established spot on the east side, moved in.
Visitors familiar with the Schenk’s Corners location will feel right at home. There are the same mustard-yellow walls and chocolatey-brown accents, a large glass case of sweets, and a fairly open kitchen area. One table boasts oversized rocking chairs while a wall of booths is adorned with old doors for some flair.
Dessert is the cafe’s wheelhouse. While the name implies chocolate is the main focus, there are several non-chocolate offerings that are definite contenders for favorite treat. Colorful macarons are available in raspberry, lemon and pistachio, to name a few flavors, and are delicately chewy on the outside with a nice little burst of flavor in the filling. The cream puff’s crisp shell envelopes fresh whipped cream dotted with strawberries and is dusted with powdered sugar.
The tarts were incredible. The lemon tart, filled with sweet, yet slightly sour lemon curd, is simply perfect. The passion fruit tart is also delightful — a creamy filling with just a hint of citrus is dotted with blueberries, mandarin oranges, raspberries, blackberries and strawberries. And again — that crust! I’m certain the secret is in good old Wisconsin butter.
Everyone should try the Parisian hot chocolate at least once. I was expecting it to be rich, but it’s near to drinking chocolate fondue. Exactly the reason it is served in a four-ounce cup with a demitasse spoon.
At first glance, the savory menu may seem limited (though it’s a bit larger than the Atwood location’s). However, there’s quite a variety, with paninis, quiche, galettes, crepes, soups and even cassoulet. Many of the items rotate flavors, so it’s likely a return visit will present new choices.
Chocolaterian has perfected the art of pastry dough, so you can’t go wrong ordering anything that includes this flaky, buttery masterpiece. The Three Little Pigs, a fun riff on the fairy tale, has large chunks of bacon, ham and sausage, melted gruyere cheese, pureed potato, and specks of swiss chard and leeks, all neatly wrapped up in a beautiful pastry pocket. The quiche was also a winner, served as an individual tart rather than a wedge.
Carolyn Fath
Passion fruit tart.
The crepes, slightly denser than I’m used to, come in a pair, served with your choice of potato chips or side salad (as most of the savory menu items are). The day I ordered, the filling consisted of creamy mashed potatoes, greasy bacon bits and gooey cheddar. Unconventional, but I loved it.
Another favorite was the curry chicken salad, with a medium level of curry flavor and just enough mayonnaise to make it creamy. The generous portion is served on a large plate of greens dressed in a light vinaigrette.
The homemade soups make for a nice, light lunch, as they are usually accompanied by a hefty slice of french bread. Perfectly satisfying on a cold day, the bean and ham was chock full of cubed ham and at least five varieties of beans, all simmered in a flavor-rich broth. Another brothy soup with sausage, kale, diced potato and herbs was also very good. On one occasion corn chowder came out cold; staff reheated it in the microwave. It may have been naive on my part to think a pot of soup was simmering on the stove just because it was homemade (the kitchen makes a large batch and then stores whatever isn’t used right away, I’m told).
Tables are occupied at all times of the day, and the room is filled with a steady din of conversation. Chocolaterian seems to be fitting right in as a neighborhood joint and upping the ante on exquisite desserts.
Chocolaterian
6637 University Ave., Middleton, chocolateriancafe.com
Fall and winter hours: 9 am-9 pm, Mon.-Thurs., 9 am-9:30 pm Fri., 9 am-10 pm Sat., 10 am-6 pm Sun., $2-$14
