Laura Zastrow
Monsoon Siam
Where have we been eating over the past 12 months? Our reviewers have visited an eclectic breakfast cafe and a one-of-a-kind Persian restaurant, a storefront serving solely sausages and a sophisticated steakhouse on the Square. Here’s a recap of what’s new in Madison-area dining, with a reference list of our favorite dishes. Note, though, that with a growing number of restaurants focusing on fresh seasonal ingredients, not all dishes mentioned may be available at all times. Reviews are by Julia Burke, Erin Clune, André Darlington, Linda Falkenstein, Kyle Nabilcy and Adam Powell.
Monona spice: Swad Indian
6007 Monona Dr., Madison, 608-819-6950; swadmonona.com
Swad’s owners have turned a blah strip-mall space into a gracious contemporary dining room, with dark woods and jewel-tone paint, a small bar up front and the steam tables for the buffet sequestered in the rear. There’s certainly enough to like at the all-you-can-eat lunch buffet (especially for $10). PICKS: Saag paneer; beef curry in a light tomato-based sauce; baingan bhartha, bright with ginger and spices. — L.F.
Best barbecue: Blowin’ Smoke
1336 Montondon Ave., Waunakee, 608-215-0069, blowinsmokebbq.org
Blowin’ Smoke will feed you, your family and your friends quite well. The smell of smoking meat greets diners even before they set foot in the building’s entryway. Any of the sauces will do you right, but I’d lean toward the sweet original over the spicy or extra spicy, to let the meat and rub really sing. PICKS: Burnt ends, Chicken Cordon Bleu sandwich, the Three Little Pigs (sandwich stuffed with pork, pit ham and more of that maple-smoked bacon, plus chipotle mayo). — K.N.
Sophisticated Italian: Cento
122 W. Mifflin St., Madison, 608-284-9378, centomadison.com
Chef Michael Pruett, one of Madison’s most talented chefs, in a space with one of the best urban dining views in town. PICKS: Perfectly executed arancini, pillowy gnocchi, and fish (char, branzino). — K.N.
Only sausage stuff: O.S.S.
910 Regent St., Madison, 608-709-1000, ossmadison.com
O.S.S. boasts a renovated steampunk space and recipes from Monroe’s Baumgartner’s, with sausages made at Green County’s Zuber’s Sausage Kitchen. Sandwiches come and go on this rapidly changing menu. PICKS: The Drunky Ducky, duck sausage infused with maple and bourbon, onions, cranberry sauce, and brown mustard; banh mi sausage; the chorizo-centric Fundido; smoked Polish; fried cheese curds. — K.N.
Burger and a beer: Mr. Brews Taphouse
(reviewed under the original name Brews Brothers), 610 Junction Rd., Madison, 608-824-9600, 611 Hometown Circle, Verona, 608-845-2280, mrbrewstaphouse.com
Upwards of 45 taps, relatively Wisconsin-light and hops-heavy. Bell’s Hopslam, Three Floyds Alpha King, Dogfish Head 90-Minute IPA — beers like this make the $3.50 happy-hour pricing awfully persuasive. If you aren’t in the mood for a burger, you may find Brews Brothers lacking. PICKS: Double “B” LT with blue cheese crumbles; Kentucky Bourbon Classic cheeseburger. — K.N.
Fun fusion: Sujeo
10 N. Livingston St., Madison, 608-630-9400, sujeomadison.com
A chef-driven sensibility in an upbeat, unfussy environment. On a huge menu spanning much of Asia but largely centered on Korea and Southeast Asia, dishes roll out with meticulous care. PICKS: Sichuan beef tongue and tripe salad, phat hot basil, pork curry. — A.D.
Say “cheese”: MACS Mac and Cheese Shop
2804 Prairie Lakes Dr. Ste. 106, Sun Prairie, 608-318-8823, macandcheeseshop.com
Macaroni and cheese here — gooey, salty, greasy and creamy — is built on a chubby ribbed elbow macaroni that retains enough bite to hold up to the onslaught of toppings. PICKS: Buffalo chicken mac, jalapeño popper mac. — L.F.
Southern Thai: Monsoon Siam
2045 Atwood Ave., Madison, 608-284-9282, monsoonsiam-wi.com
A pleasing modern Thai cafe with an open kitchen, a small bar with taps from local breweries and fast, friendly and efficient service. PICKS: Papaya salad, Southern Heat, drunken noodle. — L.F.
Working-class hero: Tip Top Tavern
601 North St., Madison, 608-241-5515, thetiptoptavern.com
Nicely revamped corner tap with big, sturdy food that’s dressed up for the 21st century. PICKS: Catfish “rich-boy,” burgers, Reuben, “The Little Oscar” bologna sandwich, green chile carnitas. — K.N.
Hummus headquarters: Palmyra Mediterranean Grill
419 State St., Madison, 608-630-9191
Large but plain dining space; lots of meze-type dishes perfect for sharing. PICKS: Hummus, beef kebab, chicken kefta, chicken with hummus. — L.F.
Noodle nirvana: Hong Kong Station
1441 Regent St., Madison, 608-661-8288
Filling bowls of legit cart-style noodles start at $4 any time of day. The tiny restaurant offers a choice of 10 varieties: egg, thick Cantonese-style, Shanghai, instant, ramen, udon, silk (mung bean), and three kinds of rice noodles. PICKS: Whole barbecue ducks and sides of crisped, tender honey barbecue pork; salt and pepper spare ribs; Singapore chow mei fun. — A.D.
Izakaya with adventure: Restaurant Muramoto
225 King St., Madison, 608-259-1040; muramoto.biz
The menu is divided among grilled, raw, skewers, fried, options; plus, there’s a fusion-sushi section. PICKS: Beef tongue marinated in miso; walleye tempura; snapper head. — A.D.
Goan Indian: Haveli
5957 McKee Rd., Fitchburg, 608-274-3333, haveliindianrestaurant.com
A color-drenched space by day and a pleasantly romantic setting at night. PICKS: Mixed grill tandoori, garlic naan, goan fish curry, goat curry. — A.D.
Cornish pasties to go: Teddywedgers
101 State St., Madison, 608-257-2383
At the tip of State Street facing the Capitol, the revamped pasty outlet is convenient to office workers, visitors and students. PICKS: Bacon, egg and cheese breakfast pasty; the Big Cheesy (essentially an inverted sausage pizza). — K.N.
Long weekend: Short Stack Eatery
301 W. Johnson St., Madison, 608-709-5569, shortstackeats.com
The remade space exudes charm with mismatched chairs, mason jar glasses, a chandelier made out of whisks, etc. Breakfast is served 24/7, but from Thursday morning through Sunday only. PICKS: Pulled pork and grits, milkshakes, blueberry pancakes. — A.D.
Korean cool: New Seoul
721 N. High Point Rd., Madison, 608-829-3331
New Seoul quietly served our city for decades on University Avenue without making many headlines; the restaurant recently relocated to the far west side in an important upgrade that bodes well for the Korean cause. This new space seats about 40, is freshly scrubbed and cheerful. It’s still casual, with wooden chopsticks on simple tables, but the greater openness in the space fosters friendliness. PICKS: The labor-intensive Korean chicken and ginger soup, sam gae tang; beef bulgogi. — A.P.
Upscale seafood: Bonefish Grill
7345 Mineral Point Rd., Madison, 608-827-5720, bonefishgrill.com
Earth tones dominate, and wooden beams frame the asymmetrical wine rack that bisects the central dining space. There’s a full bar on one side and private dining rooms on the other. PICKS: Bang Bang shrimp, the American Kobe Beef Burger, tempura-battered cod. — A.P.
Pub scene: Flying Hound Alehouse
6317 McKee Rd., Fitchburg, 608-310-4422; flyinghoundpub.com
The creative beer menu doesn’t disappoint. It’s heavy on European producers, with favorites like Belhaven Scottish Ale and Young’s Double Chocolate Stout, and Belgian classics like St. Bernardus Abt 12 and Tripel Karmeliet. There are also Western U.S. choices from Lagunitas and Big Sky, in addition to a handful of rotating Wisconsin locals. PICKS: Poutine, sausage sampler, fish fry. — J.B.
Indian off State: Mirch Masala
449 State St., Madison, 608-665-3667, madisonmirchmasala.com
The former Capitol Square restaurant reopened in more modest digs at the site of the former Redamte coffee house. PICKS: Lunch buffet, bhindi masala, beef masala, momo steamed dumplings. — L.F.
Homemade doughnuts: Rosie’s Coffee Bar and Bakery
4604 Monona Dr., Madison, 608-441-7673, rosiescoffeebarandbakery.com
Modern coffee shop, with beans from JBC Coffee Roasters, available in brewed, pour-over, cold-process and siphon preparations. Plus sweets case and full savory menu. PICKS: Scrambled egg and bacon biscuit sandwich, biscuits and gravy, chicken salad on croissant. — K.N.
Laura Zastrow
MACS Mac and Cheese Shop
Ambitious Afghani: Kabul
540 State St., Madison, 608-256-6322, kabulmadison.com
A new location for Kabul creates a whole new experience: Bigger kitchen space allows for a more sophisticated menu. The centerpiece of the new room is a bar that runs perpendicular to the windows overlooking State Street. PICKS: Afghan soup, sweet potato with lamb curry, lamb and chicken kebabs. — A.P.
Homey hearth: Doolittle’s Woodfire Grill
4323 East Towne Blvd., Madison, 608-608-729-4980, doolitles.com
Booths and a bustling kitchen are features along with the wood-burning grill at this busy spot in the East Towne parking lot. PICKS: Rotisserie chicken, baked five-cheese tortellini, bacon cheeseburger. — K.N.
Farm-to-table: Oliver’s Public House
2540 University Ave., Madison, 608-819-8555, oliverspublichouse.com
There’s loads of handsome distressed wood, and a square-shaped bar makes the earth-tone-rich space feel both cozy and active. The result is low-key and understatedly sophisticated. Craft cocktails put Oliver’s on the map. PICKS: Seared scallops and shrimp, cheese plate, trout, grilled pork chop. — A.D.
Carry on: King of Falafel
1129 S. Park St., Madison, 608-709-5353
Get carryout from the bright, sunny side room at the Amstar gas station, barely more than a grill area, a counter and a chair where you can wait for your food. PICKS: Top-notch hummus, falafel wraps, lamb platter, chicken shawarma, eggplant and potato wrap. — L.F.
Take a dip: Mad City Frites
320 State St., Madison, 608-204-6150, madcityfrites.com
Fries and poutine only are served in the former Shakti bookstore space. Also, dipping sauces. Gravy and the panoply of 10 dipping sauces are made in-house. PICKS: Zingy lime-sriracha dipping sauce, and the occasional monthly special. — K.N.
Barbecue in a bun: Asian Sweet Bakery
1017 S. Park St., Madison, 608-665-3988
Madison’s first Chinese bakery, serving classic treats out of a tiny building on the corner of South Park and Lakeside. Outfitted with glaringly clean white walls and a stark interior, the bakery also serves breakfast and lunch staples like congee and noodle bowls. PICKS: Macau-style egg custard tarts, barbecue pork turnovers, noodle bowls. — A.D.
Dry-aged, bone-in: Rare Steakhouse
14 W. Mifflin St. Madison, 608-204-9000, rareonthesquare.com
Beautifully appointed mahogany dining room, opulent red leather booths and exclusive private dining. There’s also an impressive-looking glass-encased wine cellar. PICKS: Caesar salad, dry-aged bone-in Kansas City strip steak. — A.D.
Just add salsa: El Burrito Loco
745 N. High Point Rd., Madison, 608-203-9670, elburritolocollc.com
The new brick-and-mortar location of the long-time food cart is casual, with a stone tile floor, colorful tablecloths and exceptional service. PICKS: Enchiladas Sinaloa, chilaquiles, the taco platter. — E.C.
Persian perfection: Layla’s Persian Food
141 S. Butler St., Madison, 608-216-4511
Cheery, quirky basement space appointed with eclectic odds and ends — mirrors, rugs, mismatched furniture and bright French blue chairs. It’s hidden away under the Madison Hostel. PICKS: Ghormeh sabzi, Iran’s default national dish, a stew of herbaceous greens with lamb; fesenjoon, chicken in a walnut and pomegranate sauce; sabzi kuku, a brilliant green spinach soufflé. — A.D.
Cowboys and cowgirls: Red Rock Saloon
322 W. Johnson St., Madison, 608-709-5200
Pop-country music, an actual mechanical bull, drink specials, highly attractive bartenders and a prime location. PICKS: Ribs, Buffalo wings. — J.B.
It’s a wrap: Taco Bros.
604 University Ave., Madison, 608-422-5075; thetacobros.com
Taco Bros. has a big chalkboard menu, friendly staffers, a few booths, a picnic table and some stools in the window for seating. The best fillings are jerk chicken, carnitas (pork cooked long, low and slow), braised beef, and carne asada (seasoned steak), served in tacos (corn or flour tortillas), burritos (which can be ordered dry or “wet,” i.e., covered with sauce and queso), chimichangas, quesadillas, nachos or as a taco salad. — L.F.
